Tuesday, 2 June 2015

Wardrobe Staples: Vest Suit

Let me tell you something I've learned about women's suits: they are hard to find (if we're talking about the boxy, more masculine fit I'm after. This is not what we're talking about). After about 2 years of searching, I gave up and decided to give it a go. Vest instead of a jacket because a move to a very warm place is drawing near!

 photo 0 Tools.jpg
Fabric (for the pants and vest I used around 3 m + less than 1 m of lining fabric for the vest)  |  Scissors  |  Fabric marker  |  Pins  |  Thread & sewing machine  |  Zipper  


I. Trace and cut the pieces. Here's a comprehensive post on creating trouser patterns (I don't have patience for patterns most of the time, I just wing it).
 photo 1 Cut.jpg
.. You also need the following pieces. Top row: pockets. Long piece for the waist band. Bottom row welt pockets for the back. Sig-zag all the raw edges.
 photo 1.1 Cut.jpg
II. Place the back pieces together right sides facing and sew the back seam and press it open.
 photo 2 back seam.jpg
 photo 2.1 Press.jpg
III. Sew the fly. This post walks through how.
 photo 3 Fly done.jpg
IV. Then the pockets. Cut a symmetrical curved piece off the pants on both sides, and a matching piece off the first sides of the pockets. Pin together and sew a straight stitch about 0.5 cm from the edge.
 photo 4 Pin pockets.jpg
To remove pull cut little slits like this:
 photo 5 Notches.jpg
Flip the pocket on the reverse side and press the seam.
 photo 6 Press half pocket.jpg
.. Pin the other sides of the pocket in place and sew to complete the pockets.
 photo 7 Pin second pocket half.jpg
.. They should then look something like this.
 photo 8 Pockets done.jpg
V. Pin sides together and sew all the way down. At this point I added a random thin strip of fabric at each side to create an extra seam for some added structure.
 photo 10 Pin sides.jpg
VI. Try on to be sure the size is right, pin the inner seam and sew.
 photo 11 Inside leg seam.jpg
VII. I added a couple of darts to the front for form..
 photo 12.1 Front darts.jpg
.. And to the back as well.
 photo 12.2 Back darts.jpg
VIII. I ironed the waist band to prep it with a fold in half and another fold at each side. Then pinned to waistline (on purpose low so that it wraps around the pant waistline to add thickness). The rest I finished by sewing the waist band to the reverse side of the pant by hand.
 photo 13 Pin waist band.jpg
IX. Almost there.. Added a hook closure to the waist band, and hemmed the pant legs. As the last step I added welt pockets to the back (which was terrifying, as I've never sewn ones before. I can tell you it takes a few deep breaths to start a random experiment on a nearly-done garment.. Luckily it wasn't a total disaster, only slightly crooked).
 photo 14 Attach clip.jpg


I don't want to talk about it. After several hours of misery I was convinced the Devil himself placed this specific fabric in front of me at the store, purely to torment me. The absolute WORST to work with. Hence no evidence of the process was preserved.

The vest anguish aside I ended up pretty happy with the results!




I would love to hear what you think and learn about your DIY adventures! If you use one of my tutorials, tag me on social @contour_affair, I'd love to see!


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