Monday, 4 February 2019

Making: Tiered Ruffle Dress with Subtle Puff Sleeves

Let me predict - puff sleeves will be huge in 2019. If not for everyone else, at least for me. It's mad how tastes change, even a couple years back I saw nothing appealing in the signature Disney princess sleeve, and now out of nowhere now I want to put them on everything. These were just a little test.. Gateway puffs.. more is definitely coming.

Overall this dress is a remake - just changed the sleeves + the lowest tier is a full instead of half circle ruffle.

About the sleeves - I started by drafting the sleeve out of some scrap fabric:

Then expanded it by cutting 4 slits like so. My sleeve piece before cutting the slits was 28 cm long from the top of the curve to the hem, 12 cm long on the side, and 37 cm wide at the hem.
At this point I wasn't sure how big of a puff this would result in, so I kept it pretty conservative - only opened up the slits by 3 cm or so, traced the sleeve along the outline, and cut it out.
Then did a basting stitch along the curved edge, and gathered mainly at the top of the curve (the part that will sit on either side of the shoulder line).. Until the size was back to the pattern piece I cut, before the slits. At this point I realized I could have expanded the curve even more - my gathering ended up being very subtle.
I attached my sleeve (it was very dark at this point)..
 ... And was still pretty happy with the small amount of gather:
To add some puff also to the hem of the sleeve, I also gathered that end (how much depends on the circumference of your arm, you still want to get into your sleeve):
 And to finish the sleeve hems, I cut two slits of fabric (length should correspond to the circumference of the sleeve hem once gathered):
 .. Attached those to the sleeves, pressed two folds on the cuffs (the seam allowance at the loose end, and the halfway point)..
 ..Opened the fold up again, and did the sleeve underseam.
 Finally folded the cuff again, and stitched in the ditch of the fold to finish.
Do you have good puff sleeve sewing tips for when I go big?? TELL ME!!




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