Monday 28 February 2022

#TheBabyElepant Pattern - Unisex One Size Fits 4-9 Months Baby Pant - Sewing Guide

If you are a parent that loves the idea of sewing for your baby, but how fast they grow is making it seem like a futile quest, you're in the right place. #TheBabyElepant is a unisex, flexible size pant, because ain't nobody got time to sew a new pant every month. 

The same pant fits babies from 4 to 9 months, ±1-2 months depending on the size of your baby – My girl who is smack in the middle of the growth chart has worn these from just under 4 months to current 8 mo, and they will still fit at least for a couple more months on her. This is thanks to the elasticated sides of the pant, which you can extend twice as your baby grows. 

This post features the sewing guide for Views A and B of #TheBabyElepant - the pattern itself is available on my shop here.

The waist to hem length of the pants un-extended is 30 cm (11 6/8”), and at full size 36 cm (14”). If your baby is already past 7 mo (or perhaps a larger 5-month old), you can omit the steps for the elasticated sides, and just sew the pattern with regular side seams. 

A couple important notes:
  • Seam allowances are included in the pattern, but not marked as they depend on the size of elastic you are using – This is explained below in the sewing guide.
  • Please note the steps are different depending on whether you are sewing View A or View B. Below you’ll find View A instructions first, scroll past them for View B.

View A


Suited for non-stretchy fabrics, I recommend cotton, linen, cotton-linen mix, double gauze, or any other lightweight to medium light-weight fabric. View A can be sewn with or without a subtle ruffle detail on the waistband and legs.

View B


Suited for stretchy fabrics like jersey, tricot, and other knits. This view has a sportier jogger look with trackpant cuffs.


Sewing Guide


What you need:
  • Your fabric of choice, 80 cm by 50 cm (32” by 20”) piece or 0.5 m (20”) of 110 cm (43”) wide fabric
  • Elastic:
    - For waistband: One 40 cm (16”) piece of 1.5 cm (5/8") wide for View A, or 2 cm (6/8”) wide for View B. Important that this is soft, stretchy elastic for the same waist measurement to fit over several months. If you use firm elastic, check your baby’s waist circumference to cut the right length;
    - For elasticated sides: Two 32 cm (12 ½“) pieces of 0.7 cm (1/4”) wide
    - For View A legs: Two 18 cm (7”) pieces of 0.7 cm (1/4”) wide. For View B legs you don't need elastic.
  • Scissors, Pins, Thread, Sewing machine (Serger if you have, but not necessary), Stretch needle (if sewing View B), Fabric marker, Safety pin


SEWING VIEW A


I. Cut your pattern pieces following the pant length marked View A, ensuring any stretch in the fabric runs along the width of the pant.
II. Finish the sides of the pieces with your serger, or zig-zag on your sewing machine.
III. Pin the back pieces together right sides facing, along the center back seam (the longer curved side), and sew.
... And press the back seam open.
IV. Now we’ll press the folds we’ll need to make the casings for elastic – It’s much easier to do it at this point before assembly. Start by pressing a 0.7 cm (1/4”) fold along the waistline on the reverse.
Then fold and press again on the reverse, using your elastic width as the guide for how far to fold and press. To create the mini ruffle, you need the fold to be about 5 mm (1/8") wider than your elastic. The pattern marking assumes you are using 1.5 cm (5/8”) wide elastic - if using 2 cm (6/8”) elastic, make the fold 5 mm (1/8”) wider to create the ruffle. If omitting the ruffle, your fold should be just wide enough to fit your elastic. Repeat on the front piece.
Do the same with the pant legs; first a 0.7 cm (1/4”) fold..
.. Then another, again using your elastic as the guide. The second foldline marked on the pattern has enough allowance to create the mini ruffle with a 0.7 cm (1/4") elastic.
V. Now you’ll have this. Mark your pieces at the black notch markings on the pattern – These indicate the start & end position of the elastic on the sides.
VI. Now pin your front and back pieces together, right sides facing. The below indicates how to sew the two stitches at the sides 1) the casing stitch from notch to notch, right along the edge, marked in red, and 2) The side seam, marked in blue.

For simplicity, first sew the casing stitch just a couple mm from the edge, place your elastic next to it as your guide, and sew the side seam right next to your elastic. If you wish to measure, mark the side seam 0.8 cm from the casing stitch (if using 0.7 cm/1/4" elastic).

You’ll need to leave 3 gaps – One in the side stitch at the waistline (for inserting the elastic), and one in each casing stitch, 4 cm (1 ½”) or so up from the bottom notch (for pulling out the side elastic to extend pant length). When sewing make sure you backstitch at the end and start of each seam.
The below is a closer look at how the stitches run on the side where you are leaving the gap for the waistline elastic.
And here’s a look at the gap left in the casing stitch:
VII. Next you’ll prep your elastic that will be inserted into the sides. Take the two 32-cm (12 ½”) pieces and mark 9 cm (3 ½“) from the end.
Fold the elastic there and sew two stitches, one 3 cm (1 1/8”) from the fold, and another at the halfway point, 1.5 cm (5/8”) from the fold.
Your elastic will now look like this. Repeat with the other piece of elastic.
Put a safety pin through the end of the elastic closer to the sewn fold, and insert the elastic into its casing, starting from the top of the pant. Notches marked in blue below.
When the tail of the elastic comes to the notch below the waistline, pin it in place there. Continue feeding the elastic all the way through, past the gap in the casing stitch. When you get through, remove the safety pin, allow the elastic to pull back just a bit so the end is past the notch, pin in place. Stitch the elastic in place at the notches.
What you’ll have is the elastic in its casing, with a gap where you can pull it out later to remove the stitches one at a time, to extend as your baby grows.
VIII. Time to pin the crotch and sew it using a 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance. Finish with your serger or a zig-zag.
IX. Onto the waistband. You can trim the corners of the side seams just a bit to reduce bulk if you're working with a medium heavy fabric..
.. Before folding the waistband down on the reverse, and pinning in place. This is where it’s nice to have these folds pre-pressed. You can see the gap in the stitch where you’ll soon insert the waistband elastic.
X. First edgestitch all around at the bottom of the fold. If adding the subtle ruffle detail, edgestitch again all around, about 4 mm (1/8”) from the top of the fold. The distance between these two should be just a tiny bit more than the width of your waistband elastic.
Now insert your elastic through the gap on the side. With the help of a safety pin, push through, and secure the ends with a zig-zag. As long as you are using soft elastic, I find there is no need to adjust the waist elastic over the time these pants fit. But if you want, you can use a longer piece of elastic and leave some room for growth here as well. Measure your baby's waist to check.
If you are omitting the ruffle and just doing one stitch, you'll have a basic waistband like this.
XI. Last step! We’ll do the same thing with the pant legs. Pin your pre-pressed folds down and sew around – A single stitch, or two for the ruffle detail (as done below). Here be sure to leave a gap to insert your elastic.
As with the waistband, insert your 18 cm (7”) pieces of elastic with a safety pin & sew the ends together. Close the gap in the stitch.

.. And as with the waistband, if you are going for no ruffle, your pant legs will look like this.
And you’re done! To extend the size later, just pull the elastic out from the gap in the casing stitch, and remove a stitch. Removing each stitch gives the pants 3 cm more length.


SEWING VIEW B


I. Cut your pattern pieces following the pant length marked View B, ensuring stretch in the fabric runs along the width of the pant.

II. Finish the sides of the pieces with your serger, or zig-zag on your sewing machine.

III. Pin the back pieces together right sides facing, along the center back seam (the longer curved side), and sew.

Press the back seam open.

IV. Now we’ll press the folds we’ll need to make the casings for elastic – It’s much easier to do this now before assembly. Start by pressing a 0.7 cm (1/4”) fold along the waistline onto the reverse – you can use the foldline markings on the pattern as your guide:

Then fold and press again on the reverse, using your elastic width as the guide for how far to fold and press. The second foldline on the pattern assumes you are using 2 cm (6/8") elastic. Repeat on the front piece.

V. Now you’ll have this. Mark your pieces at the triangular notch markings on the pattern – These indicate the position of the elastic on the sides. Mark also the gap for inserting the elastic into the waistband.

VI. Now pin your front and back pieces together, right sides facing. The below indicates how to sew the two stitches at the sides 1) the elastic casing stitch from notch to notch, right along the edge, marked in red, and 2) The side seam, marked in blue. 

For simplicity, first sew the casing stitch just a couple mm from the edge, place your elastic next to it, and sew the side seam right next to your elastic. If you wish to measure, mark the side seam 0.8 cm from the casing stitch (if using 0.7 cm/1/4" elastic).

You’ll need to leave 3 gaps – One in the side stitch at the waistline (for inserting the elastic), and one in each casing stitch, 4 cm (1 ½“) or so up from the bottom (for pulling out the side elastic to extend pant length). When sewing make sure you backstitch at the end and start of each seam.

VII. Next you’ll prep your elastic that will be inserted into the sides. Take the two 32-cm (12 ½”) pieces and mark 9 cm (3 ½“) from the end.
Fold the elastic there and sew two stitches, one 3 cm (1 1/8”) from the fold, and another at the halfway point, 1.5 cm (5/8”) from the fold.
Your elastic will now look like this. Repeat with the other piece of elastic.
Put a safety pin through the end of the elastic closer to the sewn fold, and insert the elastic into its casing, starting from the top of the pant.

When the tail of the elastic comes to the notch below the waistline, pin it in place there. Continue feeding the elastic all the way through, past the gap in the casing stitch. When you get through, remove the safety pin, allow the elastic to pull back just a bit so the end is past the notch, pin in place. Stitch the elastic in place at the notches. For a couple more photos of the steps here refer to the guide for View A.

What you’ll have is the elastic in its casing, with a gap where you can pull it out later to remove the stitches one at a time to extend it as your baby grows.

Now you have this:

VIII. Onto the waistband. Fold it down and pin in place.

Open up the seam allowances and lay them flat. Edgestitch all around along the bottom of the fold.

Insert your elastic from the gap with the help of a safety pin..

.. And secure the ends with a zig-zag. As long as you are using soft elastic, I find there is no need to adjust the waist elastic over the time these pants fit. But if you want, you can use a longer piece of elastic and leave some room for growth here as well. Measure your baby's waist to check.

IX. Time to pin the crotch and sew it using a 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance. Finish with your serger or a zig-zag.

Now you have it all done except for the cuffs.

X. Take your cuff pieces, place short sides together, right sides facing, and sew into a loop. Press the seams.

Then fold in half, right side out, and press seam allowances open.

Next quarter your cuffs and pant legs – Mark the mid-point between sides seams on the pant legs with pins, and on the cuffs, mark the quarters.

To pin the cuffs to the pant legs: Slide the leg inside the cuff, right sides facing and raw edges together. Align the seam on the cuff with the inseam of the pant. Then align the remaining 3 quarter pins, and stretch out the pant leg as you go and pin the remaining bits of the cuff to the leg.

Sew all around with an economical 0.7 cm (1/4")  seam allowance. Instead of my serger, I finished these with a zig-zag on my machine – there’s no need for a serger if you don’t have one!

Press the cuff seam allowances upwards on the reverse, and your Elepants are done :) To extend the size later, just pull the elastic out from the gap in the casing stitch, and remove a stitch. Removing each stitch gives the pants 3 cm (1 1/8”) more length.

I hope your baby is comfy and ready for the World's adventures in his or her Elepants!

xo,

Julia

1 comment:

  1. It looks simple but so cute! Thanks for your blog, it is very usefull!

    ReplyDelete

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