tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-83008895767723313542024-03-27T10:37:31.017+04:00Contour AffairJuliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.comBlogger219125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-20956116823662424062023-12-23T09:52:00.003+04:002023-12-23T09:53:54.841+04:00How To: Easy DIY Crossbody Phone Pouch<p style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.contouraffair.com/2023/12/how-to-easy-diy-crossbody-phone-pouch.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/DIYCrossBodyPhonePouch.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>It's been the quietest year in my 10-year blogging history. For many reasons, I just haven't felt like documenting the making process, or putting the effort into writing up guides - I've just been focused on enjoying the process of crafting & sewing, for me. The world has gone so crazy this year that talking about things like sewing tutorials has seemed irrelevant and superficial. Now I think I've found peace with the fact that creative projects are still the thing that brings me solace, and it's especially when it feels like the world is falling apart, that you need to re-energise yourself somehow, to be able to keep speaking for the oppressed. </p><p>With Christmas around the corner, this little phone pouch would be a nice gift idea, and simple enough to still have time to pull together. You could make this in so many different styles by combining different types of fabric/prints, different trims/rope... Also, the loops that in my version hold the rope, could instead have little metal rings, and then you could do a strap from embroidered trim, where at the ends you have snap hooks.</p><p><i style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Gilda Display", serif; font-size: 16px;">Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support my work with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" style="color: #999999; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="566" data-original-width="800" height="566" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/0Tools.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Main pouch fabric - Something medium-weight, I used linen in a green keffiyeh print in solidarity with Palestine. 30 cm by 25 cm or so </i><b>|</b><i> Medium-weight iron-on interfacing, 30 cm by 25 cm </i><b>|</b><i> Scissors </i><b>|</b><i> A decorative rope or other kind of strap, 120 cm (or more if you want the pouch to hang lower) </i><b>| </b><i>Topstitching thread </i><b>| </b><i> Fusible hemming tape (not mandatory but makes things easier) </i><b>|</b><i> Fray check </i><b>| </b><i> Decorative trims, I used two different ones (optional)</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><b><br /></b></div><b>I. </b>Start by measuring your phone and cutting two rectangular pieces from the interfacing, that measure the width of your phone + 3 cm, and the length of your phone + 3 cm. Cut a slight curve at the bottom corners.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/1Interfacing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="800" height="626" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/1Interfacing.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>II. </b>Next cut 2 pieces of your main fabric. They should be 1 cm wider than the interfacing pieces, and 3.5 cm longer. Treat all the sides of the main fabric pieces with fray check.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/2CutPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="534" data-original-width="800" height="534" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/2CutPieces.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>III. </b>I started by making the little loops the rope will go through. First cut a 5 cm by 12 cm piece of fabric, and a 4 cm by 12 cm piece of interfacing (I folded my interfacing in half width-wise to make it even more firm, so the loops wouldn't collapse).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/3LoopPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="638" data-original-width="800" height="638" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/3LoopPieces.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. Then fold the fabric in half width-wise and sew into a channel - creating a casing just the size of my folded interfacing piece to go through.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/4Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="521" data-original-width="800" height="521" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/4Sewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Attach a safety pin to the end of the fabric casing to turn right side out..<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/5SafetyPin.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="800" height="554" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/5SafetyPin.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/6Turned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="800" height="536" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/6Turned.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Pressed the casing with your iron, then insert the folded piece of interfacing inside using the safety pin again.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/7Insert.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="800" height="478" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/7Insert.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>You'll have this - a little strap, reinforced with the interfacing inside.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/8Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/8Done.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Cut in half to create the two little pieces that will create the rope loops.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/9CutInTwo.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/9CutInTwo.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IV. </b>Onto the construction of the pouch itself. If your fray check hasn't dried, you can help it dry by ironing your fabric pieces through a light cloth. Then fuse the interfacing onto the reverse side of each fabric piece using your iron. You want to leave 0.5 cm along the long edges, 0.5 cm at the bottom, and 3 cm at the top. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/10Fused.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/10Fused.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>V. </b>Next fold the long edges and the bottom edge over the interfacing. At the top, fold 0.5 cm down, and then fold 2.5 cm again to wrap the interfacing inside. Here I used the fusible hemming tape to glue the folds down. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/11FoldedIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/11FoldedIn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VI. </b>Next create the loops for the rope. Measure the size of the loop, so your rope fits snuggly in.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/12Measure.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="800" height="579" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/12Measure.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Then sew a straight stitch just a couple mm looser than what you measured. Repeat with the other piece so you have 2 loops.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/13Sew.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="530" data-original-width="800" height="530" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/13Sew.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VII. </b>Trim excess and position your loops on either side of one pouch piece, towards the top. I used fusible hemming tape here as well to secure them in their spots. The stitch should be just inside, so it won't show in the ready pouch.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/14Position.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="551" data-original-width="800" height="551" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/14Position.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VIII. </b>Add the other pouch piece on top. You can secure the layers with a few pins - I used small pieces of fusible hemming tape again to make sure edges stay perfectly aligned, for me to sew the pieces together.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/15Topside.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="800" height="597" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/15Topside.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>IX.</b> Top-stitch all around, just a couple mm from the edge.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/16SewAround.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="800" height="599" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/16SewAround.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>X.</b> Last bit is adding the rope. Scroll all the way down and you'll see where the pouch sits with my chosen rope length, 120 cm (which gives you an actual strap length of about 110cm after the knots are added). I like crossbody bags of all kind to hang quite high - Best to measure on yourself to confirm your preferred strap length. <br />To add the rope, first feed it through both hoops from top down. I did some testing, and tying my rope into a knot as-is resulted in a much too bulky knot. So I first peeled/pulled up the wrapping of the rope by about 5 cm, exposing the interior, and chopped it off:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/17PrepRope.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="543" data-original-width="800" height="543" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/17PrepRope.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Then pulled the outside back down, so I now had a hollow rope end:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/18InsideRemoved.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="541" data-original-width="800" height="541" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/18InsideRemoved.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. And so it made a much smaller knot tied up. Brushed the ends & cut them straight.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/20Brushed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="593" data-original-width="800" height="593" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/20Brushed.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>That was the pouch done. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/21Ready.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="638" data-original-width="800" height="638" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/21Ready.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I still wanted to add some texture, so I hand-sewed two rows of different trims across. My original plan was to also add a couple beads above the knots, but I couldn't find any big enough for my rope to pass through. If you used a smaller rope, I think that would create a nice detail.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/TrimAdded.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="800" height="599" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/TrimAdded.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/DIYCrossBodyPhonePouch2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="679" height="800" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/DIYCrossBodyPhonePouch2.jpg" width="679" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/DIYCrossBodyPhonePouch3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" height="569" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Phone%20Pouch/DIYCrossBodyPhonePouch3.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><br />xo,<br /><br />JuliaJuliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-29978268282819800842023-09-19T18:48:00.002+04:002023-09-19T19:04:31.913+04:00How To: Loose, Loungy Playsuit / Romper with Elasticated Sides<p><a href="https://www.contouraffair.com/2023/09/how-to-loose-loungy-playsuit-romper.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="800" height="583" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>It's been a while! I haven't been in the mood for making tutorials for long time, I'm pretty sure this blog has never seen such a long hiatus.. But I'm back - not sure if consistently - with a guide for this playsuit, which has been one of my most worn garments this past summer. There are so many layering options apart from the obvious crop tops/swim.. This is also another size-flexible style - These measurements would work for EU36/US4-EU42/US10, you'll just play with the distance you gather with the elastic on the sides.</p><p><i style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Gilda Display", serif; font-size: 16px;">Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support my work with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" style="color: #999999; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><i style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Gilda Display", serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="800" height="597" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/0Tools.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric, 1.6 m half-width (110 cm wide), I used medium-heavy linen </i><b>|</b><i> Scissors </i><b>|</b><i> Pins </i><b>|</b><i> Thread </i><b>|</b><i> </i><i> Bias binding (or make matching binding from the fabric) </i><b>|</b><i> Elastic (I used 1.5 cm wide), 20 cm </i><b>|</b><i> Sewing machine (serger optional)</i></p><p><br /></p><p><b>I.</b> I started by cutting out my main playsuit pieces, 2 identical for the right and left side of the suit (this is a side-seamless design). On the right you have the front crotch curve, and on the left the back.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/1CutPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="800" height="628" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/1CutPieces.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>II.</b> I also cut one front panel where I sloped the sides:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/2CutFront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="581" data-original-width="800" height="581" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/2CutFront.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>III. </b>Then I was ready to start constructing. I pinned the right and left sides together, along the center back and center front, right sides of fabric facing, and sewed together. I finished the seam allowances with my serger, but you can also zig-zag or use the faux serger stitch on your machine, if it has it.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/3SewnFrontBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/3SewnFrontBack.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>To finish and reinforce the seams, I pressed the seam allowances in opposite directions, and topstitched them down, I like to do this whenever working with linen, it strengthens the seams and gives your garment a much longer life.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/4Topstitched.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/4Topstitched.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>IV. </b>Then I pinned the crotch together, right sides facing, and repeated the above there.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/5Crotch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="800" height="620" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/5Crotch.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>V. </b>I took my front panel and pinned to the suit waistline, with its center aligned with my front center seam, and sewed in place. Finished that in the same way, seam allowance pressed down and topstitched.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/6FrontPinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="617" data-original-width="800" height="617" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/6FrontPinned.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>VI. </b>Next up was the back - I originally thought I wanted a wider back, but then decided to go for more of a racerback. I first made my straps: two identical. My finished straps measured 75 cm by 3.5 cm wide, so I started with strips of fabric 75 cm long and 9 cm wide.</p><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/8Straps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="800" height="602" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/8Straps.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><p>.. I then used the strap width as my guide to adjust the width of the top of the racerback - adding 0.7 cm or so for the seam allowance.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/7Back.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="800" height="618" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/7Back.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>VII.</b> I pinned my straps at the back and secured with a stitch.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/9PinStraps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="535" data-original-width="800" height="535" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/9PinStraps.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>VIII. </b>Then I used my fabric scraps to cut some matching bias binding, which I pinned right side to right side along like so:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/10Binding.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/10Binding.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>All the way to meet the straps in the back.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/11BindingBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/11BindingBack.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>IX.</b> Then pressed the binding onto the reverse..</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/12Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="800" height="598" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/12Pressed.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>.. And stitched it down along the folded edge.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/13Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/13Sewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>X.</b> I finished the neckline of the front panel with the same method, folding the ends of the binding in to fully enclose the raw edges. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/14Neckline.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="603" data-original-width="800" height="603" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/14Neckline.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>Same thing at the back.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/15Back.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/15Back.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>.. After pressing and stitching the binding along the folded edge I had a cleanly finished neckline and back.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/16BindingDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/16BindingDone.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><b>XI. </b>Now the suit was mostly constructed, just needed to add the elasticated sides to bring it in. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/17TryOn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="692" height="800" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/17TryOn.jpg" width="692" /></a>This was my first attempt - I marked the start of my casing for the elastic about 3 cm from the seam joining the suit & the front panel, and I thought gathering a 15-cm distance would do it. I had to eventually adjust this to 20 cm gathered.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/18MarkChannel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/18MarkChannel.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">I pinned my casing in place (for which I just used regular bias binding with the ends folded under):</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/19Channel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="639" data-original-width="800" height="639" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/19Channel.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>And sewed a straight stitch along the long edges. Then I took a piece of elastic half the length of the casing, and fed in with a safety pin. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/20Elastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/20Elastic.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Once the end of the elastic met the start of the casing, I stitched it down, fed the elastic fully through, and stitched down at the other end of the casing, I then had this:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/21ElasticIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="673" data-original-width="800" height="673" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/21ElasticIn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><p>.. But turned out I needed the sides gathered just a bit more than that, there was some gaping and I thought it's classier if people can't see into my pants if they're a bit taller than me. So I added 5 more cm of casing, and switched the elastic out to just a slightly longer one (9 cm). I can't stand the idea of even the smallest scrap not being used, so I did this with small leftover pieces of binding.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/22Extended.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="800" height="628" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/22Extended.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>After that adjustment, the fit was just right. Here's the right side view.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/23Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="800" height="554" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/23Done.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>XII.</b> Nearly done - Just added buttonholes to the front panel:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/24ButtonHoles.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="800" height="609" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/24ButtonHoles.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>XIII.</b> And hemmed the shorts with a wide 4 cm fold.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/25Hemmed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="520" data-original-width="800" height="520" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/25Hemmed.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>I had planned to use buttons to secure the straps at the front, but none looked right to me, so I ended up just tying the strap ends in double knots after slipping through the buttonholes. I like the relaxed look of them more than buttons on this style.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="800" height="570" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit2.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="564" data-original-width="800" height="564" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit3.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="547" data-original-width="800" height="547" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit4.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="547" data-original-width="800" height="547" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit5.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="800" height="580" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit6.jpg" width="800" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit_Romper_SewingGuide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="564" data-original-width="800" height="564" src="https://kattan.org/contouraffair/2023/Ivory%20Loose%20Playsuit/DIY_LooseShortsPlaysuit_Romper_SewingGuide.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>xo,</p><p>Julia</p></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-28887881829173938562022-11-03T13:30:00.005+04:002022-12-12T21:06:31.703+04:00How To: Aje -Inspired Cropped Top with Low Elasticated Back, Wraparound Belt, Scoop Neck & Puff Sleeves<p><a href="https://www.contouraffair.com/2022/11/how-to-aje-inspired-cropped-top-with.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="684" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_3.jpg" width="684" /></a><br /></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>I don't know what vortex time slips into these days. In my head I sewed this top a couple months ago, maybe max. four... and I just checked and it was in March. 8 months ago. My struggle with PPD materialises often in feeling unequipped to get things done, even if I want to. Writing up a blog post about a sewing project may seem like a dumb example, but it perfectly illustrates the reality of what PPD feels like to me - I have what feels like an endless list of things I'd like to be able to invest in, do well, improve.. But as much as I want to feel motivated to do them, I feel overwhelmed and unable. This creates a weird cycle where I avoid things and then feel worse for not making progress.</p><p>Today I scraped some energy together to finally get this out 🙌🏼 The story of this top: The beautiful Vanessa of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vemon_paris/" target="_blank">@vemon_paris</a> tagged me in a photo of <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/281545414197011380/" target="_blank">this Aje dress</a> at the start of this year, saying I should make a version of it. I absolutely agreed and this top was the result. I ended up keeping the elasticated back and puff sleeves with ties, but changing the neckline to a scoop, which I thought was more interesting, and adding a waist tie since I was making a top, not a dress.</p><p>Below is my process. Not a quick or very simple sew, but I'm so satisfied with the fit.<br /><br /><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="581" data-original-width="800" height="581" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/0Tools.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><i><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric (I used a medium-weight linen) 0.7 m of full width (150 cm wide) or 1 m of 100 cm wide | Elastic (I used 17 mm wide) | Pins | Scissors | Thread & Sewing machine</i></div></i><p><br /></p><p><b>I. </b>First I cut 2 front pieces (lining and main front), these measurements got me a great fit for my size EU36/US4.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/1CutFront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/1CutFront.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>II. </b>I then sewed darts onto both front pieces. First marked 15 cm from side and up from hem as my dart end point..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/2MarkDarts.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/2MarkDarts.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. Then sewed my darts on both sides (dart width at start about 1.5 cm).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/3DartSewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="578" data-original-width="800" height="578" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/3DartSewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Pinning the front piece onto myself, I checked how much I needed to pinch at the armscye to create the right bust fit, and added those darts in (doing this for both the main front piece and the lining piece).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/4MoreDarts.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/4MoreDarts.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>III. </b>Next I used the front piece as a stencil to cut my back pieces as below. 2 of each.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/5CutBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="639" data-original-width="800" height="639" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/5CutBack.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IV. </b>Pinned my front piece and back piece shoulder lines together right sides facing, sewed and pressed. Repeated for the lining pieces.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/6SewShoulders.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="800" height="620" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/6SewShoulders.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>V. </b>Then pinned the lining and the main top piece together along the neckline, and sewed through just a bit past the shoulder seams.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/7PinNeckline.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/7PinNeckline.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. And clipped into the curved neckline to remove tension when turned right side out.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/8Clip.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="516" data-original-width="800" height="516" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/8Clip.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>VI. </b>Moving on to the elasticated back piece. I started with a rectangle:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/9BackPiece.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="535" data-original-width="800" height="535" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/9BackPiece.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Which I sewed into a large casing along the long side, right sides facing, and pressed the seam open at the middle.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/10SewPress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="548" data-original-width="800" height="548" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/10SewPress.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Turned right side out so I had this.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/11RigthSideout.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="800" height="554" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/11RigthSideout.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Then I cut four straps of elastic, in my case 23 cm long was right. I used my mannequin to pin the top on it and then measure the gap in the back. I took out a couple cm from this measurement since the elastic should stretch out a bit when worn for a snug fit.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/12Elastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="546" data-original-width="800" height="546" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/12Elastic.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>I then sewed five stitches along the length of the casing, to create 4 casings for the elastic.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/13Casings.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="800" height="519" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/13Casings.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>When inserting the elastics in, pro tip: Insert them all at the same time. First attach a safety pin to the end of each elastic, and start feeding them together at the same pace through the casings, kind of like horses in a race. This is easier than feeding in one, which gathers the piece, and then trying to add the rest. When the elastic ends meet the start of the casing, sew over them to secure, and repeat at the other ends as the elastics come out. Press for a clean finish.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/14ElasticIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="505" data-original-width="800" height="505" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/14ElasticIn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VII.</b> I also made the tie-up straps for the waistline. I started with straps 10 cm wide and 100 cm long, resulting in straps 4 cm wide and 100 cm long.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/15Straps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/15Straps.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VIII.</b> To attach the elasticated back to the top, I pinned one end of it to one side of the top back piece, right sides facing, 6 cm up from the hem. Then sewed there to secure.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/16PintoBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/16PintoBack.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. And repeated with the other end.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/17Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" height="569" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/17Sewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Also pinned my waist tie-up straps below the elasticated piece, about 1.5 cm up from the hem. As I pinned them, I created a little pleat in each but this was just a visual detail. Sewed the straps in their spots.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/18PinStraps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="534" data-original-width="800" height="534" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/18PinStraps.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IX. </b>Next I brought the lining piece over, pinning and sandwiching the elasticated back piece and the straps in between. Sewed along the edge, starting where I had earlier ended the stitch right after the shoulder line.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/19SewLining.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="616" data-original-width="800" height="616" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/19SewLining.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>X. </b>Then I pinned the sides of the main top pieces and the lining pieces together and sewed those.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/20SewSides.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="800" height="615" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/20SewSides.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>.. So I had this.</div><div><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/21SidesDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/21SidesDone.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>XI. </b>Home stretch!! I pinned the hemline, right sides facing, and sewed across, leaving a gap in the stitch to turn the top right side out. I was careful to start the stitch right where the tie-up strap ended at the back opening, so the strap edge would be aligned with the hem. I sewed the hem with a generous 1.5 cm allowance, then turned right side out, pressed, and hand-stiched the gap closed.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/22SewHem.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="537" data-original-width="800" height="537" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/22SewHem.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>XII.</b> Lol I was kidding that was not the home stretch, we still don't have sleeves 🫠 Here's how I cut them.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/23CutSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="564" data-original-width="800" height="564" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/23CutSleeves.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>I double folded the rectangular part at the sleeve hems to create the casing like so:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/24Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="509" data-original-width="800" height="509" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/24Pressed.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Then sewed the sleeve underseam and pinned the casing fold..<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/25MarkTop.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="800" height="573" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/25MarkTop.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. So I could go onto the right side and mark where the center of the top of the sleeve hem was. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/26MarkHoles.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="537" data-original-width="800" height="537" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/26MarkHoles.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>There I created 2 holes for the tie-up straps using my machine's button hole function.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/27SewnHoles.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="590" data-original-width="800" height="590" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/27SewnHoles.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Then made two 120 cm long, narrow straps for the sleeves. I used a lighter fabric in a matching colour, since the linen I was working with would have been too stiff. When making any straps where both ends need to be finished, I leave the gap to turn right side out in the middle of the strap and push the ends out from there.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/28ThinStrap.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/28ThinStrap.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>After pressing, neat little straps..</div><div><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/29Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="559" data-original-width="800" height="559" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/29Done.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>To finish the casing, I sewed two parallel stitches all around (the upper one went along the edge of the fold on the reverse. I was so close unpicking and redoing that crooked stitch, but then realised the sleeve would be gathered it wouldn't show. Finally, inserted my strap into the casing with a safety pin. Repeated for sleeve number two.</div><div><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/30Casing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/30Casing.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>XIII.</b> THIS is the real home stretch. I zigzagged around the armscye of the top to keep the lining and main side nicely together. Then I added a gathering stitch (longest stitch on your machine on highest tension) at the top of the sleeve, over about 28-30 cm, and adjusted the gathers so to match the armscye circumference. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/31SleeveDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="800" height="583" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/31SleeveDone.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Finally... Pinned the sleeves in place, right sides facing, sewed around and finished the seam allowances with my serger (zig-zag is also fine).<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/32PinSleeve.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="546" data-original-width="800" height="546" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/32PinSleeve.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Phew. That was it. Photos below are a bit grainy, it gets dark early now and the window with light after work is slim..<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="608" data-original-width="800" height="608" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_2.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="800" height="683" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_5.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="593" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_8.jpg" width="593" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="788" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_6.jpg" width="788" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="631" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_7.jpg" width="631" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_9.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="639" data-original-width="800" height="639" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_9.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="610" data-original-width="800" height="610" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Aje%20Inspired%20Elasticated%20Back%20Top/AjeInspiredLowBackTop_10.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><br /><div>xo,</div><div><br /></div><div>Julia</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-56621959626483288252022-10-07T09:19:00.006+04:002022-12-12T21:08:01.462+04:00How To: #VeniceVest - Easy, Minimal Vest with Embroidered Trim Details<p><a href="https://www.contouraffair.com/2022/10/how-to-venicevest-easy-minimal-vest.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="800" height="650" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_1.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>I've had a vision of this set in my head for a while, but finding the right trim was a quest. I was hoping to use something a bit wider, but turns out in Dubai, finding a simple black & white design trim is not an easy task (everything has either metallic elements or is very ornate..) This one got me close enough. With these measurements, the vest has a loose fit on my size EU36/US4, and would work for up to EU40/US8 fitting slightly closer.</p><p>If you make this use #VeniceVest so I can see <3 </p><p>I'm feeling an era of trim starting.. so much opportunity lies here. The shorts are just another version of <a href="https://www.contouraffair.com/2019/08/basics-loose-fit-shorts-with.html" target="_blank">these elasticated babies</a>. I chose to put trim along the armholes and the front of the vest, but more could be more and you could also do the vest hem and/or the belt.</p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support my work with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="559" data-original-width="800" height="559" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/0Tools.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric (I used a light cotton), 1 m of full width (150 cm) </i><b>|</b><i> Scissors </i><b>|</b><i> Trim of your choice, 315 cm (get some extra to be safe) </i><b>|</b><i> Bias tape, 315 cm (optional, you can also use the fabric itself for arm hole facings </i><b>|</b><i> Thread, Pins & Sewing machine </i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></p><p><b>I.</b> My cut pieces with measurements below. Post baby bedtime sewing so grainy led-illuminated photo.. If you want to make a pattern for yourself first, I've included a guide rectangle (in white) that you can draw first, and then use as a reference for the other measurements. The image shows one back piece and one front piece - you need to cut 1 back piece and 2 of the front pieces, in mirror images of each other.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/1CutPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="608" data-original-width="800" height="608" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/1CutPieces.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>II.</b> I did French seams on this, so first pinned the fronts pieces to the back piece, along the shoulders and sides, wrong sides of fabric facing, and sewed along the sides and the shoulders..</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/2PinSidesShoulders.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="800" height="620" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/2PinSidesShoulders.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>.. Then I tried the vest on, and made two small adjustments: 1) Took in the seam at the arm pits by about 3 cm, easing into the side over 15 cm. Depending on the size of your bust, you may not need to make this adjustment, and/or you may need to add darts to get the right fit. 2) I trimmed about 2 cm off the ends of the shoulder line, grading into the armscye. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/3TakenIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="800" height="573" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/3TakenIn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>III.</b> Next I proceeded with normal <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYa86gQbN6c" target="_blank">French seam steps</a>. If doing regular, non-French seams, start previous step by pinning right sides facing, take in at arm pits if you need to, and finish the seams with a serger or a zig-zag on your machine, depending on your tolerance of non-perfect guts:) I also pressed my seams flat and top-stitched them on the right side.</p><p><b>IV. </b>To finish constructing the base vest all that's left is to finish the raw edges. I finished the arm holes with bias tape, but the one I had was a bit shiny, so I didn't want it showing in the front when I wear the vest open. So for the front I made a wide bias tape out of my fabric. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gxz6xkyBkO0&t=39s" target="_blank">Here's a video on how to use bias binding to create arm hole facings</a> - and the same logic applies to binding any part of a garment with bias tape. The hem of the vest I finished with a double fold.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/4Hemmed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="800" height="554" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/4Hemmed.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>V. </b>Ready to add the trim. Starting at the hem in the front, fold the trim under itself and pin all around, folding again under as you arrive at the hem on the other side. Sew in place right at both edges of the trim.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/5PinTrim.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/5PinTrim.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>When adding the trim to the arm holes, I first pinned it all around, leaving enough tail to go over the side seam by a couple cm. Then marked where I needed to sew the trim ends together at an angle, so the trim lies flat at the arm pit. You can also pin the trim to overlap, and fold the trim end on top under itself.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/6TrimJoins.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="514" data-original-width="800" height="514" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/6TrimJoins.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Here's also a look at the trim start at the front hem, folded under itself.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/7FoldedUnder.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="537" data-original-width="800" height="537" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/7FoldedUnder.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>To wrap up I made 2 belt loops and a matching belt (10 cm wide, 150 cm long) out of the same fabric.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="641" data-original-width="800" height="641" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_2.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="617" data-original-width="800" height="617" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_4.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_5.jpg" width="800" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="531" data-original-width="800" height="531" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_7.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="603" data-original-width="800" height="603" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_6.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="800" height="585" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_8.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_9.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="635" data-original-width="800" height="635" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_9.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_SewingGuide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="800" height="560" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Black%20Minimal%20Trim%20Detail%20Vest/DIYMinimalVestTrimDetails_SewingGuide.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>xo,<div><br /></div><div>Julia</div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-85037507175419832282022-09-21T13:07:00.005+04:002022-10-07T09:16:30.764+04:00#NoaToddlerDress - Easy, Gathered Dress with Circular Yoke - Fits 9-24 mo<p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.contouraffair.com/2022/09/noatoddlerdress-easy-gathered-dress.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="800" height="591" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/NoaToddlerDress.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>Just like that, about six months ticked by since I last posted a tutorial.. Life with a toddler flies. I've been talking for ages about doing guides for kids pieces, and here we go, finally. I'm also starting to give my designs names, so it's easier for you to discover other sewists' versions on social. Meet the #NoaToddlerDress ! This is a size-flexible dress of course, fitting over a long time, first looser, then closer, and finally as a top as your kid grows. </p><p>The 9-24 mo is an approximate range - babies/toddlers come in such different sizes.. I recommend you measure an existing dress your child has, and compare the measurements to see if you need to adjust. My kid is 15 mo in the photos, 78 cm tall, and her build is a bit smaller than average (she still fits into most 12-mo commercial clothing).</p><p>.. And before you ask, yes, I absolutely plan on trying this style out in adult size.</p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support my work with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><br /></p><p><b>TOOLS:</b></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><i>Fabric - about half a meter of half-width (110 wide), I used <a href="https://www.helloheidifabrics.com/produkt/cotton-sateen-shapes-blue-by-anne-bomio/?lang=en" target="_blank">this beautiful Shapes Blue cotton sateen from Hello Heidi Fabrics</a></i></li><li><i>Thread</i></li><li><i>Sewing machine</i></li><li><i>Scissors, pins, chalk</i></li><li><i>4 buttons</i></li></ul><br /><p></p><p><b>I.</b> To cut the body of the dress, start with a 40 cm by 55 cm rectangle, then mark 5 cm in and 6 cm down from the top corners, and draw + cut a curve. You need 2 of these pieces.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/1CutBody.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/1CutBody.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>II.</b> Next we'll cut the yoke pieces. You may want to start by making yourself a pattern on an A4 piece of paper; Draw a rectangle sized 30 cm by 12 cm, and then mark 7 cm in and 3 cm down from the top corners. connect these dots. Then mark the top center, and 4 cm down from that point, and draw the curved top line. Mark 8 cm down from it to draw the bottom curved line, to create the below donut slice shape.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/2CutNeckline.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/2CutNeckline.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>Cut 4 of these - 2 for front and back, and 2 for the linings.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/3CutFour.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/3CutFour.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Mark one piece of each yoke pair as below - 6 cm in from both bottom corners.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/9MarkNeckline.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/9MarkNeckline.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>III. </b>Let's start constructing the dress. Sew the sides of the dress body pieces - I did french seams but you could also just pin right sides facing, and sew the sides normally, finishing with serger or zig-zag. About 1 cm seam allowance.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/4SideSeams.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/4SideSeams.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IV. </b>Next finish the arm holes. Using your iron, make a narrow fold (5 mm or so) onto the reverse:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/5FoldOnce.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="601" data-original-width="800" height="601" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/5FoldOnce.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. Then fold again..<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/6FoldAgain.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/6FoldAgain.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. And secure with a stitch right along the edge of the fold.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/7Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="595" data-original-width="800" height="595" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/7Sewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>V. </b>Now we'll gather the dress neckline to match the area of the yoke it needs to cover - 20 cm. Sew a gathering stitch (longest stitch on your machine, with high tension - I crank mine all the way up to 9). Depending on your fabric and your machine, you will probably get very close to the 20 cm by just sewing with high tension, but if you need to, adjust the gathers by pulling on the bobbin thread, until you have a 20 cm width. To have better control of manipulating the gathers, sew 2 gathering stitches right next to each other - I was lazy here and just did one.<div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/10Gather.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/10Gather.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VI. </b>How you pin in this next step is a matter of preference. When attaching linings at gathers, I prefer to first sew the piece on the reverse with my machine, and then <i>hand-sew the</i> <i>right side</i>. This means I first pin the lining piece to the reverse of the dress, right side of lining facing reverse of dress. Align the ends of the gathered neckline with the markings on your yoke.</div><div>If you prefer to hand sew the lining on the <i>reverse</i>, then you need to start by pinning the yoke piece to the right side of the dress, right sides facing.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/11PinNeckline.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/11PinNeckline.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>If you go with my order, here's what you'll have after sewing both lining pieces onto the dress along the gathered neckline.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/12NecklineSewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/12NecklineSewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Next we'll add on the right sides of the yokes (or if you started the opposite way, the lining pieces). Pin them right sides facing, and sew all around, pivoting at the corners.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/13AddFacing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/13AddFacing.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Once sewn, clip the corners and also clip into the curved edge to remove tension, before turning right side out.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/13SewnClipped.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="517" data-original-width="800" height="517" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/13SewnClipped.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><div><div>Turn the yoke right side out, gently push out the corners with something not too sharp. Press. Then fold the un-sewn part of the yoke under, and pin in place. Hand-sew to secure. You can of course do a topstitch here with your machine - I prefer the stitchless look. If you started the other way around, you'll just be handstitching on the reverse at this point.</div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/14PinFacing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="800" height="562" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/14PinFacing.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Your neckline is now done!<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/15NecklineDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/15NecklineDone.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VII.</b> Next hem the dress with a double fold - I went a bit wider, about 3.5 cm, and I can later lengthen the dress from here as Naya grows.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/16Hem.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="800" height="528" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/16Hem.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VIII.</b> Last step is adding your buttons. Mark two button holes on each end of one yoke, sew with your machine's buttonhole setting, and then add 2 buttons on each end of the other yoke.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/17Buttons.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="800" height="568" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/17Buttons.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>That's it! Dress done! I had some fabric left at this point so used the scraps to add 2 patch pockets in the front (lots of tutorials for that to be found, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYisovQFY5I" target="_blank">e.g. this one</a>).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/NoaToddlerDress4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/NoaToddlerDress4.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/NoaToddlerDress3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/NoaToddlerDress3.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/NoaToddlerDress_Guide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="738" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Noa%20Toddler%20Dress/NoaToddlerDress_Guide.jpg" width="738" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">xo,</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Julia</div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-39488190415627063322022-03-24T13:25:00.002+04:002022-10-07T09:16:14.052+04:00Basics: Minimal Knit Tank with Binding Finished Neckline and Arm Holes<p><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2022/03/basics-minimal-knit-tank-with-binding.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="800" height="599" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/BasicTank_Tutorial.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /></p><a name='more'></a>Sewing dresses, skirts and statement tops will always be my favourite thing, but I feel about wearing those things to hang out at home the same way Abe of Marvelous Mrs. Maisel feels about sofa pillows (<i>"</i><i>Do not sleep on the couch. It wears out the cushions faster than just every day sitting."</i>)<div><br /></div><div>So here's a basic, simple tank top, part of a 3-piece set that I can wear at home in peace.<br /><br />The measurements below make a top with a semi-loose fit for my size EU36/US4, or a closer fit for a size up. You could also use an existing top you have to draft.</div><div><br /></div><div><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support my work with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="800" height="599" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/0Tools.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric (any stretchy knit, I used <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1255936/cotton-waffle-textured-stretch-knit-fabric-mint&variant=1255884" target="_blank">this cotton waffle</a>), 60 cm of 110 cm wide </i><b>| </b><i> Scissors </i><b>|</b><i> Pins </i><b>|</b><i> Sewing machine, serger if you have but not necessary</i></p><p><br /></p><p><b>I. </b>Here's my cut front piece - I've included a reference rectangle around the piece to help with drafting.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/1CutFront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="654" data-original-width="800" height="654" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/1CutFront.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>And the back piece:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/2CutBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/2CutBack.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>II.</b> First I pinned the shoulders and sides, right sides facing, and sewed them.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/3PinShouldersSides.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/3PinShouldersSides.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>III.</b> After that I checked for size. I had thought a loose fit was what I wanted, but I realised it wasn't vibing with the structure of the fabric. I made the call to take in a couple cm at the side seams under the arm, and trim a bit off the armscye as well (marked with pins below).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/4TryOn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="647" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/4TryOn.jpg" width="647" /></a></div>After those adjustments I liked the fit better:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/5TakenIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="623" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/5TakenIn.jpg" width="623" /></a></div><div><b>IV.</b> Next I prepped my trim for the arm holes. I like to cut my trim at about 85-90% of the arm hole length:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/8Length.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="800" height="613" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/8Length.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>I have more detail on this process <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2022/02/how-to-everyday-ribbed-knit-dress-two.html" target="_blank">in this post</a>, but the key when sewing your trim ends together is to sew a triangular stitch like so:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/6Trim.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="800" height="568" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/6Trim.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>This creates the right shape to lay flat under the arm.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/7TrimReady.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/7TrimReady.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Below: trims pinned to top (after quartering = marking the quarters of the arm hole and the trim and aligning those), right side to right side, to sew around. For the neckline it's the same thing, only with that piece of trim, you can sew the trim ends together straight. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TdwewCWsZU" target="_blank">Here's a video</a> that walks through this pretty well.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/9Pinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/9Pinned.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>After attaching the trim and pressing it up (pressing seam allowances towards top):</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/10Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="800" height="615" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/10Done.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><div><b>V.</b> Last step was hemming. I couldn't be bothered to set up my machine with a double needle.. so I just serged the hem and did a single fold which I straight stitched.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/11Hem.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="543" data-original-width="800" height="543" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/11Hem.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>And done! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/BasicTank_Tutorial2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/BasicTank_Tutorial2.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/BasicTank_Tutorial3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Minerva%20Mint%20Waffle%20Set/BasicTank_Tutorial3.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>xo,<div><br /></div><div>Julia</div></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-39893765012704385472022-03-17T16:05:00.005+04:002023-07-01T10:12:28.643+04:00#TheBabyElepant Sewing Pattern Hacks: Bloomers, Shorts & Dungarees<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.contouraffair.com/2022/03/thebabyelepant-sewing-pattern-hacks.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="743" data-original-width="800" height="743" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/TheBabyElepant_DungareeShortBloomer.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><span></span><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a>I promised some Elepant hacks and here they come! This guide will go through using <a href="https://menaitribe.com/product/thebabyelepant/" target="_blank">#TheBabyElepant pattern</a> to make shorts, bloomers, and dungarees (the latter can of course be made with either the bloomer, short, or full length pant!) So considering the 3 standard styles of the pant, we're now talking 10 different pants you can make with the same pattern!<p></p><p>As with the standard Elepant, these are very size-flexible, the shorts/bloomers version fitting from 4 mo to potentially even 18 mo depending on the size of your baby. The guide below walks through Shorts & Bloomers first, both of which you can make into dungarees. Whichever bottom style you are doing, you want to first construct the pant apart from the waistband - the dungaree flap will be integrated there.</p><p>What you need apart from the basic sewing supplies (sewing machine, thread, scissors):</p><p><b><i>Shorts</i></b></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Fabric - 0.3 m of 110 cm wide</li><li>Elastic - 2 cm wide for waistband - measure your baby, likely 40-48 cm</li></ul><p></p><p><b><i>Bloomers</i></b></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Fabric - 0.3 m of 110 cm wide</li><li>Elastic - 2 cm wide for waistband (measure baby's waist, likely 40-48 cm piece); 0.7 cm wide for legs (measure your baby, likely 2 pieces 23-26 cm each)</li></ul><div><b><i>Dungarees</i></b></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Fabric - Quantity depending on whether you are doing <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2022/02/thebabyelepant-pattern-unisex-one-size.html" target="_blank">full length</a> or shorts/bloomers bottom</li><li>Elastic - See above for shorts/bloomers, and <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2022/02/thebabyelepant-pattern-unisex-one-size.html" target="_blank">here</a> for full length</li><li>2 buttons (recommend size approx. 1.5-2 cm in diameter)</li></ul></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p>Honestly I'd love to have inch conversions in this post but Naya is teething and mom's tired. If you work in inches: 1. I'm sorry that you have to suffer with this inferior measurement unit that lacks logic & precision; 2. You will be far less likely to make mistakes converting from cm to inch, compared to me in this state. (3. I recommend you join us civilised people and move over to the metric system at least in sewing. 😏 Yes you too Karen)</p><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">SHORTS / BLOOMERS</h3><p><b>I. </b>First we need to do a quick modification to the <a href="https://menaitribe.com/product/thebabyelepant/" target="_blank">pattern pieces</a>. On the front piece side seam, measure 27 cm down from the waistline and mark there. Draw a straight line across, at a 90 degree angle to the side.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/2FrontPieceMod.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/2FrontPieceMod.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>On the back piece, mark the same 27 cm on the side, but over on the crotch side mark 1 cm more - 28 cm. Connect these with a straight line.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/1BackPieceMod.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/1BackPieceMod.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>To avoid cutting & reprinting the pattern, just fold the pant legs up, along the lines you just drew. Before cutting into your fabric, see the next step.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/3Folded.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="800" height="613" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/3Folded.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>II. </b>As you cut your 2 back pieces and 1 front piece for the shorts/bloomers, at the leg inseam you'll want to angle the cut out in the bottom 1.5 cm as shown below.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/4AngledCut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="543" data-original-width="800" height="543" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/4AngledCut.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>The easy way to do this is to first cut around the pattern in just a rectangle (don't yet cut the crotch curve), and fold the bottom edge up by 1.5 cm. Working with the front piece it will look like this (fabric folded in half in photo):</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/FoldedFront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/FoldedFront.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Then place the pattern at the fold and cut the crotch curve, over the fold:</div><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/CutFront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/CutFront.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><div>And you'll have created a symmetrical angled cut.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/AngleCut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="616" data-original-width="800" height="616" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/AngleCut.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>This is to be able to hem the short with a fold:</div><div><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/5Folded.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="800" height="615" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/5Folded.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>III. </b>Assemble your shorts/bloomers similarly to when making the full length normal Elepant - only here we don't need any elasticated sides, making the process quicker! Pin the back pieces right sides facing and sew the back center seam, and press double folds on the waistline and legs. On waistline, first fold 0.5 cm, and then again 2 cm; on legs first fold 0.5 cm, then again 1 cm.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/6BackSewnPressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="800" height="607" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/6BackSewnPressed.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IV. </b>Next pin the short/bloomer sides and crotch, right sides facing, and sew with 0.7 cm seam allowance. When sewing the scrotch, follow the angled cut.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/SewingCrotch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/SewingCrotch.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Then pin the leg hems you had pre-pressed, and edgestitch at the bottom of the fold - either all around if doing shorts & not adding elastic to the hems, or leaving a gap for elastic if doing bloomers. Here are my shorts version which I used to make the dungarees (no elasticated legs). If you are sewing dungarees, from here jump to the start of the DUNGAREES guide, a couple steps below.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/7LegsPinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/7LegsPinned.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>.. But if doing bloomers or just shorts, you're almost there. For my bloomers version, I did a tiniest little ruffle along the waistline by adding a stitch about 3 mm from the top of the fold:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/BeforeElastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/BeforeElastic.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>And added my elastic to the waistline and legs. If doing shorts, you'll only elasticate the waist. I did loose legs for Naya's little thighs and used a 24 cm long piece of elastic for both - but measure your baby's thigh to make sure it's comfy for him/her.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/ElasticIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="561" data-original-width="800" height="561" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/ElasticIn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><h3 style="text-align: left;">DUNGAREES</h3><div>Start with either the shorts/bloomers from above - or the <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2022/02/thebabyelepant-pattern-unisex-one-size.html" target="_blank">full-length Elepant</a> - all done except for waistband.</div><div><br /></div><div style="font-weight: bold;"><b>I.</b><span style="font-weight: 400;"> The other 4 pieces you need for dungarees are for the front flap and shoulder straps - Cut 2 of each of the below rectangles.</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: 400; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/0CutPieces.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="263" data-original-width="800" height="263" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/0CutPieces.png" width="800" /></a></div></div><b>II. </b>To make the shoulder straps, take your 2 long rectangles, fold in half width-wise with your iron (right sides facing), and sew from the fold at one end (0.7 cm seam allowance), pivot at the corner, and sew along the long edge, leaving the other short end unsewn. Trim the corners.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/8FoldSewStraps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="548" data-original-width="800" height="548" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/8FoldSewStraps.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Push the strap through itself, turning it right side out and pushing out the corners (I like to use a paintbrush handle for this, the rounded head makes sure I don't puncture the fabric).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/9PushThrough.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" height="586" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/9PushThrough.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Press your straps.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/10DoneStraps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="566" data-original-width="800" height="566" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/10DoneStraps.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>III. </b>Take one of your dungaree flap rectangles and pin the two straps on the right side of the fabric, at both corners of a short edge, 0.7 cm from the edges. Sew the straps in place just a few mm from the edge.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/11Pin.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="622" data-original-width="800" height="622" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/11Pin.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Pivot the straps towards the center so they are out of the way and you don't sew over them in the next step.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/12OutofWay.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="800" height="597" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/12OutofWay.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Take the other dungaree flap piece, place on top, right sides facing, and pin around. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/13PinLining.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/13PinLining.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Sew around from one long edge to the other, and clip the corners.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/14SewAround.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="800" height="536" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/14SewAround.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Use the straps to pull right side out and press.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/15RightSideout.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="800" height="615" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/15RightSideout.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IV. </b>To attach the flap to the shorts (or pants), mark the center front on the pant and the flap, slide the flap 0.5 cm under the waistline fold you have pressed on the pant, aligning the center markings. Reverse of flap should face reverse of pant. Pin in place.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/16PintoPants.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="800" height="615" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/16PintoPants.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>V.</b> First edgestitch at the bottom of the waistband fold, leaving a gap to insert your elastic. Then fold the flap up, and edgestitch at the top of the waistband fold (marked in blue), securing the flap in place.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/17Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" height="569" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/17Sewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>On the reverse it will be nice and clean:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/18Reverse.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="800" height="560" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/18Reverse.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VI.</b> Insert your elastic from the gap you left, sew elastic ends together, and close the gap in the stitch. I like to also distribute the gathers on the waistband so that the front has less gathering (we don't really want to gather the flap area that much)...<div>... And the back has more as you can see below. To secure the gathers like this, stitch in the ditch over over the waistband at both side seams.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/20GathersBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/20GathersBack.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VII.</b> Almost there! At the back, mark 6 cm out from the center back seam on both sides for the buttons..<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/21MarkButtons.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/21MarkButtons.jpg" width="800" /></a>.. And sew them in place at the seam of the waistband.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/22SewButtons.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/22SewButtons.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>The straps have some room for growth - I recommend trying on your baby to get the buttonhole placement right. For my 9 month old the perfect spot for the buttonhole right now was 4.5 cm from the end of the strap. As she grows, I'll add another hole to the end of the strap.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/23ButtonHole.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" height="586" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/23ButtonHole.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>All done!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/24Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/24Done.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Naya approves:)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/TheBabyElepant_DungareeHack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/TheBabyElepant_DungareeHack.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/TheBabyElepant_DungareeHack2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="617" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/TheBabyElepant_DungareeHack2.jpg" width="617" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/TheBabyElepant_DungareeHack3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="638" data-original-width="800" height="638" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/TheBabyElepant_DungareeHack3.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Here's how they look in full length dungaree version:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/LongDungarees.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="665" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/Dungaree%20Hack/LongDungarees.jpg" width="665" /></a></div><div><br /></div>xo,<div><br /></div><div>Julia<br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-43612553846979185382022-03-07T15:56:00.002+04:002022-10-07T09:16:01.809+04:00Making: Gathered Sleeveless Babydoll Dress with Vertical Ruffle Details<p><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2022/03/making-gathered-sleeveless-babydoll.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="642" data-original-width="800" height="642" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabyDollDress_3.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /></p><span></span><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a>In this perpetual year of 2020 I open my closet in the morning to get dressed, say hello to all the pretty things hanging there, and grab a lounge set. I was missing sewing though, so this dress I figured was a middle meeting point between comfy home wear and something more put-together.<p></p><p>The dress is a combination of parts of previous makes, so this is more a collection of previous tutorials:</p><p>I started by drafting a simple V-neck top - you could use the measurements from <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/01/how-to-tiered-dress-with-exposed.html" target="_blank">this dress</a> for a looser fit with a round neckline, <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/07/how-to-sewing-square-neckline.html" target="_blank">this one</a> for a square neckline, there's also the <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/08/how-to-boxy-minimal-sleeveless-crop-top.html" target="_blank">mini V option</a>... The measurements in the image below got me a slightly closer fit than I normally do (I'm EU36/US4).</p><p>I finished the arm holes and the neckline using bias tape - see <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/08/how-to-boxy-minimal-sleeveless-crop-top.html" target="_blank">here</a> for the arm holes & if doing a round neckline. There are a couple of ways to finish a bias bound V neck, <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2016/03/techniques-bias-bound-v-neck.html" target="_blank">here</a>'s one of them - I was running very low on matching bias tape so did a seam at the bottom of the V instead of a fold.</p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support my work with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/1TopMeasurements.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="800" height="597" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/1TopMeasurements.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Then I had my ready top:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/2TopDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/2TopDone.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Next I cut two strips of fabric for the ruffles. <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2018/11/how-to-30-min-vertical-ruffle-frill-top.html" target="_blank">Here's how to finish the ruffles and attach to the top.</a> I did a 2X multiplier for my ruffles on this one, and after doing the double folds on the short edges & one long edge, my strips were 5 cm wide. I attached them to the top so they went just slightly over the arm holes at the shoulders.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/3Ruffle.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/3Ruffle.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>After gathering my ruffles, pinning them on the top and sewing in place, the only thing left was to add the skirt piece. I cut two simple rectangles, double the width of my top and 60 cm long, sewed the sides together, gathered and attached to the top, then hemmed with a wide double fold. You could also go for an <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/01/how-to-tiered-dress-with-exposed.html" target="_blank">exposed ruffle edge</a>.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabyDollDress_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="655" data-original-width="800" height="655" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabyDollDress_2.jpg" width="800" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabydollDress_6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="800" height="574" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabydollDress_6.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabydollDress_4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="664" data-original-width="800" height="664" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabydollDress_4.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabudollDress_7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="800" height="528" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabudollDress_7.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabyDollDress_1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="800" height="597" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRuffleBabyDollDress_1.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRufflebabyDollDress_Tutorial.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="551" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Sand%20Check%20Babydoll%20Vertical%20Ruffle%20Dress/VerticalRufflebabyDollDress_Tutorial.jpg" width="551" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">xo,</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Julia</div><br />Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-91667586767332982862022-02-28T20:18:00.001+04:002022-02-28T20:18:46.336+04:00#TheBabyElepant Pattern - Unisex One Size Fits 4-9 Months Baby Pant - Sewing Guide<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2022/02/thebabyelepant-pattern-unisex-one-size.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="598" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/TheBabyElepant_Cover.jpg" width="598" /></a></div><div><span><a name='more'></a></span>If you are a parent that loves the idea of sewing for your baby, but how fast they grow is making it seem like a futile quest, you're in the right place. <a href="https://menaitribe.com/product/thebabyelepant/" target="_blank">#TheBabyElepant</a> is a unisex, flexible size pant, because ain't nobody got time to sew a new pant every month. </div><div><br /></div><div><i>The same pant fits babies from 4 to 9 months, ±1-2 months depending on the size of your baby</i> – My girl who is smack in the middle of the growth chart has worn these from just under 4 months to current 8 mo, and they will still fit at least for a couple more months on her. This is thanks to the elasticated sides of the pant, which you can extend twice as your baby grows. </div><div><br /></div><div>This post features the sewing guide for Views A and B of #TheBabyElepant - the pattern itself is available <a href="https://menaitribe.com/product/thebabyelepant/" target="_blank">on my shop here</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>The waist to hem length of the pants un-extended is 30 cm (11 6/8”), and at full size 36 cm (14”). If your baby is already past 7 mo (or perhaps a larger 5-month old), you can omit the steps for the elasticated sides, and just sew the pattern with regular side seams. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>A couple important notes:</b></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><i>Seam allowances are included in the pattern, but not marked as they depend on the size of elastic you are using – This is explained below in the sewing guide.</i></li><li><i>Please note the steps are different depending on whether you are sewing View A or View B. Below you’ll find View A instructions first, scroll past them for View B. </i></li></ul><div><br /></div></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">View A</h3><div><br /></div><div>Suited for non-stretchy fabrics, I recommend cotton, linen, cotton-linen mix, double gauze, or any other lightweight to medium light-weight fabric. View A can be sewn with or without a subtle ruffle detail on the waistband and legs.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/TheBabyElepant_ViewA_Cover.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="688" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/TheBabyElepant_ViewA_Cover.jpg" width="688" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">View B</h3></div><div><br /></div><div>Suited for stretchy fabrics like jersey, tricot, and other knits. This view has a sportier jogger look with trackpant cuffs.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/Elepants_ViewB_Jogger_Cover.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="523" data-original-width="800" height="523" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/Elepants_ViewB_Jogger_Cover.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><br /><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Sewing Guide</h3><div><br /></div><div>What you need:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="605" data-original-width="800" height="605" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/0Tools.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Your fabric of choice, 80 cm by 50 cm (32” by 20”) piece or 0.5 m (20”) of 110 cm (43”) wide fabric</li><li>Elastic: <br />- <i>For waistband:</i> One 40 cm (16”) piece of 1.5 cm (5/8") wide for View A, or 2 cm (6/8”) wide for View B. Important that this is soft, stretchy elastic for the same waist measurement to fit over several months. If you use firm elastic, check your baby’s waist circumference to cut the right length; <br />- <i>For elasticated sides:</i> Two 32 cm (12 ½“) pieces of 0.7 cm (1/4”) wide<br />- <i>For View A legs:</i> Two 18 cm (7”) pieces of 0.7 cm (1/4”) wide. For View B legs you don't need elastic.</li><li>Scissors, Pins, Thread, Sewing machine (Serger if you have, but not necessary), Stretch needle (if sewing View B), Fabric marker, Safety pin</li></ul><h3 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;">SEWING VIEW A</h3><div><br /></div><b>I. </b>Cut your <a href="https://menaitribe.com/product/thebabyelepant/" target="_blank">pattern pieces</a> following the pant length marked View A, ensuring any stretch in the fabric runs along the width of the pant.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/1CutPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="483" data-original-width="800" height="483" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/1CutPieces.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>II.</b> Finish the sides of the pieces with your serger, or zig-zag on your sewing machine.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/2SergedSides.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/2SergedSides.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>III.</b> Pin the back pieces together right sides facing, along the center back seam (the longer curved side), and sew.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/3PinBackseam.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="546" data-original-width="800" height="546" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/3PinBackseam.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>... And press the back seam open.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/4Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="800" height="606" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/4Pressed.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IV. </b>Now we’ll press the folds we’ll need to make the casings for elastic – It’s much easier to do it at this point before assembly. Start by pressing a 0.7 cm (1/4”) fold along the waistline on the reverse.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/5FoldTop.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="800" height="562" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/5FoldTop.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Then fold and press again on the reverse, using your elastic width as the guide for how far to fold and press. To create the mini ruffle, you need the fold to be about 5 mm (1/8") wider than your elastic. The pattern marking assumes you are using 1.5 cm (5/8”) wide elastic - if using 2 cm (6/8”) elastic, make the fold 5 mm (1/8”) wider to create the ruffle. If omitting the ruffle, your fold should be just wide enough to fit your elastic. Repeat on the front piece.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/6FoldAgain.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="530" data-original-width="800" height="530" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/6FoldAgain.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Do the same with the pant legs; first a 0.7 cm (1/4”) fold..<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/7FoldLeg.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="800" height="570" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/7FoldLeg.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. Then another, again using your elastic as the guide. The second foldline marked on the pattern has enough allowance to create the mini ruffle with a 0.7 cm (1/4") elastic.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/8FoldAgain.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="515" data-original-width="800" height="515" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/8FoldAgain.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>V. </b>Now you’ll have this. Mark your pieces at the black notch markings on the pattern – These indicate the start & end position of the elastic on the sides.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/9Notches.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="800" height="607" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/9Notches.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VI.</b> Now pin your front and back pieces together, right sides facing. The below indicates how to sew the two stitches at the sides 1) the casing stitch from notch to notch, right along the edge, marked in red, and 2) The side seam, marked in blue.<div><br /></div><div>For simplicity, first sew the casing stitch just a couple mm from the edge, place your elastic next to it as your guide, and sew the side seam right next to your elastic. If you wish to measure, mark the side seam 0.8 cm from the casing stitch (if using 0.7 cm/1/4" elastic).<br /><br />You’ll need to leave 3 gaps – One in the side stitch at the waistline (for inserting the elastic), and one in each casing stitch, 4 cm (1 ½”) or so up from the bottom notch (for pulling out the side elastic to extend pant length). When sewing make sure you backstitch at the end and start of each seam.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/10PinSewSidess.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="800" height="583" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/10PinSewSidess.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>The below is a closer look at how the stitches run on the side where you are leaving the gap for the waistline elastic.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/11StitchPlacement.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/11StitchPlacement.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>And here’s a look at the gap left in the casing stitch:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/13Gap.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="800" height="607" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/13Gap.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VII. </b>Next you’ll prep your elastic that will be inserted into the sides. Take the two 32-cm (12 ½”) pieces and mark 9 cm (3 ½“) from the end.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/14MarkElastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="521" data-original-width="800" height="521" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/14MarkElastic.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Fold the elastic there and sew two stitches, one 3 cm (1 1/8”) from the fold, and another at the halfway point, 1.5 cm (5/8”) from the fold.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/15SewTwice.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="464" data-original-width="800" height="464" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/15SewTwice.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Your elastic will now look like this. Repeat with the other piece of elastic.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/16Elastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="497" data-original-width="800" height="497" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/16Elastic.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Put a safety pin through the end of the elastic closer to the sewn fold, and insert the elastic into its casing, starting from the top of the pant. Notches marked in blue below.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/17Insert.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="550" data-original-width="800" height="550" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/17Insert.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>When the tail of the elastic comes to the notch below the waistline, pin it in place there. Continue feeding the elastic all the way through, past the gap in the casing stitch. When you get through, remove the safety pin, allow the elastic to pull back just a bit so the end is past the notch, pin in place. Stitch the elastic in place at the notches.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/18Pininplace.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="800" height="575" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/18Pininplace.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>What you’ll have is the elastic in its casing, with a gap where you can pull it out later to remove the stitches one at a time, to extend as your baby grows.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/19Inserted.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" height="569" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/19Inserted.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VIII. </b>Time to pin the crotch and sew it using a 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance. Finish with your serger or a zig-zag.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/20PinCrotch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="619" data-original-width="800" height="619" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/20PinCrotch.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IX. </b>Onto the waistband. You can trim the corners of the side seams just a bit to reduce bulk if you're working with a medium heavy fabric..<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/21Trim.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="595" data-original-width="800" height="595" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/21Trim.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. Before folding the waistband down on the reverse, and pinning in place. This is where it’s nice to have these folds pre-pressed. You can see the gap in the stitch where you’ll soon insert the waistband elastic.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/22PinWaist.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="800" height="562" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/22PinWaist.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>X.</b> First edgestitch all around at the bottom of the fold. If adding the subtle ruffle detail, edgestitch again all around, about 4 mm (1/8”) from the top of the fold. The distance between these two should be just a tiny bit more than the width of your waistband elastic.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/23TwoStitches.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="611" data-original-width="800" height="611" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/23TwoStitches.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Now insert your elastic through the gap on the side. With the help of a safety pin, push through, and secure the ends with a zig-zag. As long as you are using soft elastic, I find there is no need to adjust the waist elastic over the time these pants fit. But if you want, you can use a longer piece of elastic and leave some room for growth here as well. Measure your baby's waist to check.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/24InsertElastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="800" height="573" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/24InsertElastic.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/25SewEnds.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="551" data-original-width="800" height="551" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/25SewEnds.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>If you are omitting the ruffle and just doing one stitch, you'll have a basic waistband like this.</div><div style="font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/ViewA_NoRuffle.jpg" style="font-weight: 400; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="559" data-original-width="800" height="559" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/ViewA_NoRuffle.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>XI. </b>Last step! We’ll do the same thing with the pant legs. Pin your pre-pressed folds down and sew around – A single stitch, or two for the ruffle detail (as done below). Here be sure to leave a gap to insert your elastic.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/26PinLegs.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="504" data-original-width="800" height="504" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/26PinLegs.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/27SewLegs.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="517" data-original-width="800" height="517" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/27SewLegs.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>As with the waistband, insert your 18 cm (7”) pieces of elastic with a safety pin & sew the ends together. Close the gap in the stitch.<div><br /></div><div>.. And as with the waistband, if you are going for no ruffle, your pant legs will look like this.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/ViewA_NoRuffleLeg.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/ViewA_NoRuffleLeg.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>And you’re done! To extend the size later, just pull the elastic out from the gap in the casing stitch, and remove a stitch. Removing each stitch gives the pants 3 cm more length.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/28Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="649" data-original-width="800" height="649" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/28Done.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/29ReadyViewA.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="800" height="618" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/29ReadyViewA.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">SEWING VIEW B</h3><div><br /></div><b>I.</b> Cut your <a href="https://menaitribe.com/product/thebabyelepant/" target="_blank">pattern pieces</a> following the pant length marked View B, ensuring stretch in the fabric runs along the width of the pant.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/1CutPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/1CutPieces.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><b>II. </b>Finish the sides of the pieces with your serger, or zig-zag on your sewing machine.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/2Serged.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="582" data-original-width="800" height="582" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/2Serged.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><b>III. </b>Pin the back pieces together right sides facing, along the center back seam (the longer curved side), and sew.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/3PinBackseam.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/3PinBackseam.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />Press the back seam open.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/4Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/4Pressed.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><b>IV.</b> Now we’ll press the folds we’ll need to make the casings for elastic – It’s much easier to do this now before assembly. Start by pressing a 0.7 cm (1/4”) fold along the waistline onto the reverse – you can use the foldline markings on the pattern as your guide:<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/5FoldWaist.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="800" height="519" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/5FoldWaist.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />Then fold and press again on the reverse, using your elastic width as the guide for how far to fold and press. The second foldline on the pattern assumes you are using 2 cm (6/8") elastic. Repeat on the front piece.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/6FoldAgain.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="800" height="568" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/6FoldAgain.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><b>V. </b>Now you’ll have this. Mark your pieces at the triangular notch markings on the pattern – These indicate the position of the elastic on the sides. Mark also the gap for inserting the elastic into the waistband.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/7NotchesMarked.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/7NotchesMarked.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><b>VI. </b>Now pin your front and back pieces together, right sides facing. The below indicates how to sew the two stitches at the sides 1) the elastic casing stitch from notch to notch, right along the edge, marked in red, and 2) The side seam, marked in blue. </div><div><br /></div><div>For simplicity, first sew the casing stitch just a couple mm from the edge, place your elastic next to it, and sew the side seam right next to your elastic. If you wish to measure, mark the side seam 0.8 cm from the casing stitch (if using 0.7 cm/1/4" elastic).</div><div><div><br /></div><div>You’ll need to leave 3 gaps – One in the side stitch at the waistline (for inserting the elastic), and one in each casing stitch, 4 cm (1 ½“) or so up from the bottom (for pulling out the side elastic to extend pant length). When sewing make sure you backstitch at the end and start of each seam.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/8PinSidesStitchMarkings.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/8PinSidesStitchMarkings.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><b>VII. </b>Next you’ll prep your elastic that will be inserted into the sides. Take the two 32-cm (12 ½”) pieces and mark 9 cm (3 ½“) from the end.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/14MarkElastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="521" data-original-width="800" height="521" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/14MarkElastic.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Fold the elastic there and sew two stitches, one 3 cm (1 1/8”) from the fold, and another at the halfway point, 1.5 cm (5/8”) from the fold.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/15SewTwice.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="464" data-original-width="800" height="464" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/15SewTwice.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Your elastic will now look like this. Repeat with the other piece of elastic.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/16Elastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="497" data-original-width="800" height="497" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewA/16Elastic.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Put a safety pin through the end of the elastic closer to the sewn fold, and insert the elastic into its casing, starting from the top of the pant.<br /><br />When the tail of the elastic comes to the notch below the waistline, pin it in place there. Continue feeding the elastic all the way through, past the gap in the casing stitch. When you get through, remove the safety pin, allow the elastic to pull back just a bit so the end is past the notch, pin in place. Stitch the elastic in place at the notches. For a couple more photos of the steps here refer to the guide for View A.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/15ElasticIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="564" data-original-width="800" height="564" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/15ElasticIn.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />What you’ll have is the elastic in its casing, with a gap where you can pull it out later to remove the stitches one at a time to extend it as your baby grows.<br /><br />Now you have this:<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/16SidesDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="800" height="645" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/16SidesDone.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><b>VIII. </b>Onto the waistband. Fold it down and pin in place.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/17PinWaist.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="513" data-original-width="800" height="513" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/17PinWaist.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />Open up the seam allowances and lay them flat. Edgestitch all around along the bottom of the fold.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/18Sideseam.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/18Sideseam.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />Insert your elastic from the gap with the help of a safety pin..<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/19InsertElastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="557" data-original-width="800" height="557" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/19InsertElastic.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />.. And secure the ends with a zig-zag. As long as you are using soft elastic, I find there is no need to adjust the waist elastic over the time these pants fit. But if you want, you can use a longer piece of elastic and leave some room for growth here as well. Measure your baby's waist to check.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/20SewEnds.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="582" data-original-width="800" height="582" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/20SewEnds.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><b>IX.</b> Time to pin the crotch and sew it using a 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance. Finish with your serger or a zig-zag.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/21PinCrotch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/21PinCrotch.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />Now you have it all done except for the cuffs.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/22BeforeCuff.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="800" height="632" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/22BeforeCuff.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><b>X.</b> Take your cuff pieces, place short sides together, right sides facing, and sew into a loop. Press the seams.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/23SewCuffs.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="800" height="554" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/23SewCuffs.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />Then fold in half, right side out, and press seam allowances open.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/24PressCuffs.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="800" height="558" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/24PressCuffs.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />Next quarter your cuffs and pant legs – Mark the mid-point between sides seams on the pant legs with pins, and on the cuffs, mark the quarters.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/25Quartered.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="800" height="606" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/25Quartered.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />To pin the cuffs to the pant legs: Slide the leg inside the cuff, right sides facing and raw edges together. Align the seam on the cuff with the inseam of the pant. Then align the remaining 3 quarter pins, and stretch out the pant leg as you go and pin the remaining bits of the cuff to the leg.<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/26Pinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/26Pinned.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />Sew all around with an economical 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance. Instead of my serger, I finished these with a zig-zag on my machine – there’s no need for a serger if you don’t have one!<br /><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/27Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/27Sewn.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />Press the cuff seam allowances upwards on the reverse, and your Elepants are done :) To extend the size later, just pull the elastic out from the gap in the casing stitch, and remove a stitch. Removing each stitch gives the pants 3 cm (1 1/8”) more length.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/29ReadyViewB.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="800" height="645" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/PATTERNS/TheBabyElepant/ViewB/29ReadyViewB.jpg" width="800" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I hope your baby is comfy and ready for the World's adventures in his or her Elepants!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">xo,</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Julia</div></div></div></div><span><!--more--></span><span><!--more--></span>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-27322227619861565912022-02-04T15:15:00.004+04:002022-02-22T10:03:00.591+04:00How To: Everyday Ribbed Knit Dress Two Ways - With and Without Sleeves [+ How to Use a Seam to Create Darts]<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2022/02/how-to-everyday-ribbed-knit-dress-two.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="548" data-original-width="800" height="548" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/2KnitDresses_Tutorial.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>A cozy knit dress is such a good staple. This is a combo guide for sewing an easy, comfy dress from knit fabric in two ways - Sleeveless, and T-shirt. Although I've used ribbed knit for both dresses, you could also go with jersey or another comfy, stretchy fabric. You can of course also play with the length of the dress from mini to maxi.</p><p>In there are also two little hacks: 1) My favourite trick for hemming knit fabrics - using fusible hemming tape instead of stabiliser. Especially if you're a beginner with knits, I highly recommend trying that out. And 2) How you can use a strategically positioned seam to create a detail and a dart in one.</p><p>Both dresses feature a loose fit, combined with a stretchy material, so I'd say you can use the same measurements if you're between EU34/US2 (take in a bit) and EU40/US8. Of course for the latter the fit will be a bit closer. I am EU36/US4 and 175 cm tall.</p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support my work with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/00Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="800" height="594" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/00Tools.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Knit fabric (I used a white thrifted 70's rib, and <a href="https://zelouffabrics.com/products/26122-catalina-ribbed-knit?variant=39499703910587" target="_blank">this one in Olive from Zelouf fabrics</a>) - 2 m of full-width (150 cm wide) per dress | Thread | Stretch needle + Universal or stretch twin needle | Pins | Scissors | Sewing machine (+serger if you have one) | Optional but makes life easier: Fusible hemming tape</i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">OPTION 1 - SLEEVELESS DRESS</h3><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>I. </b>Starting with my cut pieces with measurements. I only cut mine like this because the fabric I was using was 120 cm wide, which was not enough for the ankle length that I wanted. But it resulted in a nice seam detail which I like a lot. If you want to cut your dress out of one continuous piece, scroll down to the T-Shirt dress version. I used my serger for both of these dresses but you can also work with a regular sewing machine, finishing the seams with a wide zig-zag and/or a stretch stitch. The important thing is to use a stretch needle, a regular needle will not work with most stretch materials.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/1CutPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="611" data-original-width="800" height="611" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/1CutPieces.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>II. </b>To assemble my front and back pieces I pinned my pieces together right sides facing, and sewed together. I also top-stitched these seams to emphasize them a bit on the right side.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/2Pin.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="800" height="594" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/2Pin.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>.. I adjusted my necklines a bit deeper:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/3Necklines.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="800" height="554" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/3Necklines.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>II. </b>Next I pinned and sewed the shoulders, and when trying the dress on I realised I could skip sewing darts, and just use the seam I already had, to take in gaping at the arm hole.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/4ShouldersDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="510" data-original-width="800" height="510" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/4ShouldersDone.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Here's a photo I hope illustrates this better. At both ends of the seam, I took in about 2 cm.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/5SeamDart.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="517" data-original-width="800" height="517" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/5SeamDart.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>III.</b> Now I was ready to cut out my trims for the neckline and arm holes. I measured the circumference of each, then cut out 3 strips of fabric (lengthwise opposite to the direction of the rib in the knit). Width about 4 cm, and length 90% of the neckline/arm hole circumference. Fold the strips in half width-wise, wrong sides facing, and press a fold along the length with your iron.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/6Trims.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="610" data-original-width="800" height="610" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/6Trims.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>This next image will probably come back to haunt me one day. It's ok to laugh. But I forgot to take a photo of this critical step, so you what you get is a remarkably crappy drawing. What this illustrates is how you need to sew the ends of the trims of the arm holes, to get them to lie flat under the arm. If you just sew them straight, the trim will stick out. <div><br /></div><div>When you place the ends of your trim together right sides facing, instead of sewing straight, sew a triangular shape as shown in this fine art work. Then trim excess and clip the corner before turning right side out and pressing again.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/6.5TrimSewing.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="332" data-original-width="800" height="332" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/6.5TrimSewing.png" width="800" /></a></div><div>When you have your 3 trims (neckline and 2 arm holes) sewn into loops...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/7TrimsSewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="553" data-original-width="800" height="553" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/7TrimsSewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>.. You're ready to attach them to the dress. You want to first quarter them - Fold each trim loop in half, mark the halves with pins, and then fold those halves and mark the quarters. Do the same for the neckline and arm holes. As you pin the trims to their places, you start by alining those quarter pins, and then stretch the neckline/arm hole slightly as you pin the rest. Make sure on the arm holes to start with alining the seam of the trim with the side seam of the dress. With the neckline you can either place the trim seam center back, or align with with one of the shoulder seams.</div><div><div><div><br /></div><div>If you need a bit more detail on the quartering process, <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/05/how-to-comfy-loose-t-shirt-shorts.html" target="_blank">see step IX of this tutorial</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/8Pinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="800" height="558" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/8Pinned.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>After sewing all around, here's what you'll have. Press.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/9Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="800" height="602" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/9Done.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Repeat for the neckline, except there you can sew your trim into a loop straight.</div><div><br /></div><div>At the time of sewing this dress I didn't have a twin needle at hand so I hemmed the dress by first finishing the hem with my serger, then doing a single fold which I secured with my sewing machine's stretch stitch.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/10hem.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="800" height="609" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/10hem.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>That's it for the sleeveless one!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/WhiteKnitDress_1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="757" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/WhiteKnitDress_1.jpg" width="757" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/WhiteRibbedKnitDress_3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="614" data-original-width="800" height="614" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/WhiteRibbedKnitDress_3.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/WhiteRibbedKnitDress_5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="800" height="750" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/WhiteRibbedKnitDress_5.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/WhiteRibbedKnitDress_6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="784" data-original-width="800" height="784" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/WhiteRibbedKnitDress_6.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/WhiteKnitDress_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="790" data-original-width="800" height="790" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/WhiteKnitDress_2.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><br /></div><br /><div><h3>OPTION 2 - T-SHIRT DRESS</h3></div></div></div></div><br /></div><div>Very similar as the above, main difference being this one features sleeves. I used a twin needle on some of the finishes this time around.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>I. </b>Cut pieces below, fit just a tiny bit less loose than the sleeveless version.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/1CutDress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="593" data-original-width="800" height="593" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/1CutDress.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here's a closeup of the sleeve & measurements. The seam allowance/hem of the sleeve is cut outwards, mirroring the angle of how the sleeve underarm is cut, to allow for folding on the reverse.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/2Sleeve.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/2Sleeve.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>II.</b> After sewing the dress shoulders I pinned my sleeves in their places, right sides facing, and sewed:<a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/3PinnedSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/3PinnedSleeves.jpg" width="800" /></a><br /><b>III. </b>Now for my little knit fabric hemming trick. Most tutorials will tell you to use fusible fabric stabiliser at the edges of your fabric before sewing with a twin needle. I prefer to use fusible hemming tape, which does the job of the stabiliser, but also secures your fold, to sew over with your twin needle. I also like to do this early, right after sewing the shoulder seams - it's much easier to work with a sleeve you can open up fully, compared to when the sleeve underseam is already sewn.<div><br /></div><div>Place a piece of hemming tape along where your folded edge will sit. Important that you don't fuse the whole distance of the fold yet - leave a couple cm on each side unfused.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/4HemmingTape.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="581" data-original-width="800" height="581" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/4HemmingTape.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>After fusing the hemming tape with your iron, most of your fold, excluding the sides, will be nicely secured.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/5Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/5Pressed.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>IV.</b> Now we'll leave the sleeve hemming for a bit and pin the sides of the dress + sleeve underarms, and sew those.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/6PinSides.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/6PinSides.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>V.</b> Once that's done, you can go ahead and add a small piece of hemming tape under the bit of sleeve folds where it's still unfused. Now everything is nicely secured and ready for you to take your twin needle and sew your sleeve hems on the right side. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8udxZcvAG40&ab_channel=Sewway" target="_blank">Here's a quick video on this process</a> if it's your first time working with a twin needle.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/7SleevePressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/7SleevePressed.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>As a purely visual detail I did two rows of twin needle stitches on my sleeves.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/8Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/8Sewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VI. </b>Here are also a couple of images of my ready neckline (done as with the sleeveless dress version above) + the simple single fold hem of the dress, with a twin needle finish.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/9Neckline.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="800" height="627" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/9Neckline.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/10Hem.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="800" height="609" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/10Hem.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>I've already worn these so much I might be able to justify making another colour:)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/OliveRibbedKnitDress_3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" height="586" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/OliveRibbedKnitDress_3.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/OliveKnitDress_1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="767" data-original-width="800" height="767" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/OliveKnitDress_1.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/OliveRibbedKnitDress_5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="765" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/OliveRibbedKnitDress_5.jpg" width="765" /></a></div></div></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/OliveRibbedKnitDress_4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="588" data-original-width="800" height="588" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/Olive%20Rib%20Knit%20TShirt%20Dress/OliveRibbedKnitDress_4.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/KnitDress2Ways_Tutorial.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="487" data-original-width="800" height="487" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2022/White%20Rib%20Knit%20Tank%20Dress/KnitDress2Ways_Tutorial.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><br />Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-11791491994534785142021-10-26T19:25:00.002+04:002021-10-26T19:26:13.109+04:00How To: Frilly Shoulder Straps 2 Ways - Using Shirring and Cased Elastic<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/10/how-to-frilly-shoulder-straps-2-ways.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="800" height="554" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/FrillyStraps_DIY_TwoWays.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>This is a quick and easy one, and adds a really pretty & delicate detail to add to any top or dress. I got lots of requests for a tutorial for the whole dress - that might be coming later on - I'm finding these mini guides are more suited to my current job as milk barkeep:)</p><p>I've made the same dress twice recently, with the same style straps achieved in two different ways; using<b> rows of shirring</b>, and with a <b>double casing of narrow elastic</b>. Below are both methods.</p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support my work with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p>A couple of things will play a role in how this style of shoulder strap turns out:</p><p>1) <i><b>The type of fabric you are using</b>.</i> This will impact how 'dense' the shirring will become (a lighter fabric will allow itself to gather more). It will also determine how much the straps will stretch out when worn, from the weight of the fabric = the weight of the dress. If working with heavier fabric, I recommend the cased elastic version, the shirring is best suited for lighter materials.</p><p>2) <i><b>How many shirring stitches/rows of elastic you do.</b></i> In the shirred version, I did only 3 rows of shirring on each shoulder strap, which was enough to nicely gather my lightweight cotton gauze. If working with a heavier fabric, you could do more rows of shirring. Same goes for the elasticated version - 3 rows would get you even more firmly gathered straps. Remember though that as you add shirring rows/rows of elastic, you add the intensity of gathering, which means you may want to start off with longer strap pieces.</p><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">METHOD 1: SHIRRING</h3><p><br /></p><p>For reference, my finished over-knee dress out of double cotton gauze weighs just under 300 g. With the measurements I've shared, my straps are 20 cm at rest (dress not worn) and the weight of the dress stretches them out to 40 cm when worn.</p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><i><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="800" height="667" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/0Tools.jpg" width="800" /></i></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-style: italic;">Fabric </i><b>|</b> <i style="font-style: italic;"> Scissors </i><b>|</b><i style="font-style: italic;"> Regular & Elastic Thread </i><b>|</b><i style="font-style: italic;"> Pins</i></div><p><br /></p><p><b>I.</b> I started off with about 65 cm long, 11 cm wide strap pieces.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/1CutPiece.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="800" height="589" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/1CutPiece.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>II.</b> First do a double fold on both long edges of the piece (I did a 1 cm fold), and sew along the fold. Then fold the strap width-wise and press, so you have a marking down the middle.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/2Folds.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/2Folds.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>III.</b> Then sew 3 shirring stitches symmetrically down the middle (or you can do more rows, as I mentioned above, the more shirring stitches the more the fabric will gather). Start by sewing one along the fold you just pressed, and then one on each side of that first stitch, using your presser foot edge as the guide. Once stitched, it's important to tie up the ends of the threads like I've shown <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2020/03/how-to-easy-midi-skirt-with-front-slit.html" target="_blank">in this post</a>. Otherwise the shirring will start coming apart with wear.</p><p>Repeat for the other strap, then take your iron and press with steam. When pressing shirring, instead of ironing regularly (gliding your iron back and forth) it's better to press it down on one spot, apply steam, lift, and move on to the next area, steam, and so on. And voilà. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/3Shirred.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="800" height="587" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/3Shirred.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>How you attach the straps to your garment depends on the style of the garment - if your neckline has a facing or is finished with bias tape, you can sandwich the straps in between.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/DIYShirredShoulderStraps2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="584" data-original-width="800" height="584" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/DIYShirredShoulderStraps2.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/DIYShirredShoulderStraps4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="800" height="571" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/DIYShirredShoulderStraps4.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/DIY_ShirredShoulderStraps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="555" data-original-width="800" height="555" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/DIY_ShirredShoulderStraps.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/DIYShirredShoulderStraps3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="800" height="589" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Muslin%20Dress%20Shirred%20Straps/DIYShirredShoulderStraps3.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">METHOD 2: CASED ELASTIC</h3><div><br /></div><div>I made this version of the dress maxi-length, and used linen, so it's heavier - 560 g. Two rows of elastic were enough to carry it nicely without stretching out too much when worn.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/Tools.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><i><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric </i><b>|</b><i> Narrow elastic (I used 0.7 cm) - my strap length was 38 cm so I needed 4 pieces that long </i><b>|</b><i> Thread & Sewing machine</i><b> | </b><i>Safety Pin</i></div></i><div><br /></div><div><b>I.</b> Cut your strap pieces - 2 long rectangles 2x your desired strap width + 2x your seam allowance. I did mine 5.5 cm wide ready, so with a 0.5 cm seam allowance, 12 cm for the cut piece. My ready straps needed to be 38 cm, so I cut my pieces 73 cm long each, a 1.9x multiplier. I normally do a 2x multiplier for most ruffles but here I was working with a 146 cm wide piece of fabric, and I wanted to be economical with the material so just divided that 2. That turned out to be 73 cm.</div><div>Fold your pieces in half with your iron and sew along the long edge.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/1Sew.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/1Sew.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>II.</b> Then turn the pieces right side out (using safety pin is easiest), and press so the seam runs down the center.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/2Press.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="800" height="589" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/2Press.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>III.</b> Add your casing stitches. First sew right down the middle, and if doing 2 casings per strap, you just need to add 2 stitches on either side of that center stitch. Distance just a bit more than the width of your elastic.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/3Casings.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="595" data-original-width="800" height="595" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/3Casings.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IV.</b> Then insert your elastics into their casings with the help of a safety pin. Push one elastic far enough so its end meets the start of the strap, sew the end in place there, and then continue pushing the elastic all the way to the end, and secure that end as well with a quick back and forth stitch. Then add second elastic.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/4ElasticIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="510" data-original-width="800" height="510" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/4ElasticIn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Last give your straps a press..<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/5Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="495" data-original-width="800" height="495" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/5Done.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. And use in your top or dress!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/DIY_CasedElastic_FrilllyStraps1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="800" height="579" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/DIY_CasedElastic_FrilllyStraps1.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/DIY_CasedElastic_FrilllyStraps_1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="593" data-original-width="800" height="593" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/DIY_CasedElastic_FrilllyStraps_1.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/DIY_CasedElastic_FrilllyStraps_4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="800" height="604" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blush%20Gathered%20Straps%20Dress/DIY_CasedElastic_FrilllyStraps_4.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>xo,<div><br /></div><div>Julia</div></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-79388266013858618422021-10-03T18:47:00.001+04:002021-10-03T18:47:26.738+04:00How To: A Line Maxi Dress with Spaghetti Straps, Straight Neckline, Elasticated Back & Pockets<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/10/how-to-line-maxi-dress-with-spaghetti.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="800" height="533" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_ALineElasticBackMaxiDress_2.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A special thank you to my wonderful friend Marleena who gave me this absolutely incredible fabric. I must have played around with it for half an hour, trying to decide what kind of garment would give the print the best kind of stage. Cars? The pink/orange combo? Does it get any better than this?? I absolutely love a large scale print, which can come out in so many different ways in a piece of clothing - If you're not paying attention, you might not even notice the cars on the finished dress, but most importantly.. I know they're there.</div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/0Print.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="521" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/0Print.jpg" width="521" /></a></div><p>At the same time I had to address my current #1 constraint - everything I make must be breastfeeding friendly. I didn't feel like interrupting the glorious print with some kind of front opening, so instead did an elasticated back, which allows the top to be pulled down easily. </p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="800" height="585" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric, 2.5 m full-width (150 cm) - I used a silk-viscose blend, but you could do any lightweight flowy fabric (crepe, light cotton, etc.. A firmer fabric like cotton shirting is also possible, and would create a more structured look/stronger A line) </i><b>|</b><i> Bias tape (about 65 cm) </i><b>|</b><i> Elastic (about 25 cm) </i><b>|</b><i> Scissors </i><b>|</b><i> Pins </i><b>|</b><i> Thread & Sewing machine (+serger if you have) </i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p><b>I. </b>Cut pieces with measurements below. I'm pretty much back to my post-pregnancy size EU36/US4 for the top of my body (hips still couple sizes up, which makes no difference in this dress since super loose). Thanks to the elasticated back, the fit is pretty flexible a size or two up from me. My above-chest measurement (over boobs), taken from underarm to underarm (sideseam to sideseam) is 50 cm.</p><p>Front piece:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/1CutFront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="707" height="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/1CutFront.jpg" width="707" /></a></div>Back:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/3CutBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="766" data-original-width="800" height="766" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/3CutBack.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>II.</b> I started by adding darts to my front piece. Below are some guiding measurements for how I placed them, the blue line indicates where I put the dart. Ended up needing to elongate it a bit as you'll see in the next photo.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/4DartMarked.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="524" data-original-width="800" height="524" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/4DartMarked.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>After sewing my dart, I pressed it, and to make it sit flatter, re-sewed the end to make it a bit longer.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/5DartDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="800" height="562" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/5DartDone.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>III. </b>Next I made my spaghetti straps using <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2017/12/techniques-quick-easy-thin-shoulder.html" target="_blank">this method</a>. Made them 50 cm long each, but only ended up needing just a bit over 40 cm.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/6Straps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/6Straps.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Then took the straps and pinned them on the front piece, secure the ends in place with a few back and forth stitches.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/6PinStraps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="800" height="540" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/6PinStraps.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Took my bias tape and pinned it along the neckline on the right side, over the straps like so:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/7PinBias.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="555" data-original-width="800" height="555" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/7PinBias.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Closeup of how I folded the bias tape at the corner where the neckline becomes the arm curve:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/8BiasFold.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/8BiasFold.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>Then sewed along the bias tape opened fold. I always like to stitch over the shoulder straps a few times with a very short stitch, to make sure they stay securely attached with wear. Once done, trimmed the bulk of the folded bias tape away.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/9TrimBulk.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="800" height="604" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/9TrimBulk.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>And so I was ready to flip the bias tape onto the reverse, press, and topstitch. Pretty damn pleased with how neat it turned out.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/10Topstitched.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="800" height="594" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/10Topstitched.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>On the reverse:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/11Reverse.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/11Reverse.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IV. </b>Next I finished the back piece, by first pressing a double fold just a bit wider than your elastic along the top edge:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/12PressBackPiece.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="800" height="587" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/12PressBackPiece.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><br /><div>Sewed the fold in place, and took my elastic with a safety pin..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/15Elastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/15Elastic.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. And inserted inside the casing. I wanted a detail where only the center area of the back would be elasticated, so I pulled the elastic through until its end was about 8 cm inside, measured from the side. Secured the end there with a pin, and continued to pull the elastic all the way through (so I could get the safety pin off). Then let the safety pin-removed end slide back inside the casing, until it was that same 8 cm from the edge, secured with pin, and sewed both ends in place..<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/16Inserted.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="601" data-original-width="800" height="601" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/16Inserted.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. With a vertical stitch, like this.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/17SewnEnds.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" height="586" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/17SewnEnds.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><b>V. </b>That's both front and back pieces done, so I got ready to attach them together by cutting my pockets:<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/13Pockets.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="800" height="606" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/13Pockets.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. Which I pinned on both front and back pieces, right sides facing, equal distance from the top down (I did 23 cm). Sewed the pockets on and finished the seam allowances with my serger (could also do zigzag).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/14PinPockets.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/14PinPockets.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VI.</b> To finish the sides, pinned the front and back together at the sides, pockets pulled out, and sewed down (of course going around the pocket, not through). I left the serger & straight stitch thread ends untrimmed:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/18SideSeam.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/18SideSeam.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>.. And then pressed the seam allowance towards the front piece, and tucked the thread ends under the fold.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/19TuckThreads.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/19TuckThreads.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>.. And finally, reinforced my side seams by top-stitching on the right side (again, not sewing your pocket shut:)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/20Topstitch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/20Topstitch.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VII. </b>Last 2 steps: Trying on to confirm shoulder strap length (I did 40 cm) & attaching the straps onto the back piece (I hand-sewed mine 6 cm from the start of the elasticated area)..<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/21Straps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="800" height="508" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/21Straps.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>.. And hemming the dress, where I did a tiny double fold not to sacrifice any of the length of the dress.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/22Hem.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="539" data-original-width="800" height="539" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/22Hem.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>So flowy!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_ALineElasticBackMaxiDress_7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="800" height="626" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_ALineElasticBackMaxiDress_7.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_ALineElasticBackMaxiDress_5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="556" data-original-width="800" height="556" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_ALineElasticBackMaxiDress_5.jpg" width="800" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIYALineElasticBackMaxiDress_6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="800" height="565" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIYALineElasticBackMaxiDress_6.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIYALineElasticBackMaxiDress_3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="800" height="596" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIYALineElasticBackMaxiDress_3.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_ALineElasticBackMaxiDress_1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="561" data-original-width="800" height="561" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Car%20Print%20A%20Line%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_ALineElasticBackMaxiDress_1.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>xo,<div><br /></div><div>Julia</div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-39218678985172965592021-08-23T13:08:00.005+04:002021-09-22T11:27:50.686+04:00How To: Boxy Minimal Sleeveless Crop Top with Geometrical Square/Mini V Neck<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/08/how-to-boxy-minimal-sleeveless-crop-top.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="800" height="620" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/DIYBoxySquareVCropTop3.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a>This project features some of the most amazing fabric I've ever found. It's a 100% linen from the 60's or 70's, made in Finland, and it came from a blanket I found at the thrift store. It has a beautiful weight to it, and just a bit of stretch to make it so comfortable in a garment. I first made a pair of basic elasticated shorts from it (a lot like <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2019/08/basics-loose-fit-shorts-with.html" target="_blank">these here</a>), and let the matching top brew for a bit.. Until I (validated by a very close IG story vote) decided on a boxy style with a geometrical neckline. This was the first time I did a neckline other than the standard crews, Vs, Us, and I love how clean it turned out! I got so many questions about this method, lots of people asking what kind of facing I used - And believe it or not it's just the most basic cotton (actually from a pillowcase I cut up).<div><br /></div><div>I've included the full guide for the top, but this would be a nice detail to hack a top or dress pattern with!</div><div><br /></div><div><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="534" data-original-width="800" height="534" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/0Tools.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-style: italic;">Fabric (I used a thick vintage linen) 0.5m (110cm wide) + you also need matching fabric for the facing, a basic cotton will do, or something else that presses easily </i> <b>|</b><i style="font-style: italic;"> Scissors </i><b>|</b> <i style="font-style: italic;"> Pins </i><b>|</b> <i style="font-style: italic;"> Bias tape </i><b>|</b><i style="font-style: italic;"> Thread & Sewing machine</i></div><div style="font-style: italic; text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><p style="text-align: left;"><b>I.</b> I keep getting requests for patterns, but that's still not in the cards. I'm all about selfdrafting, and with my tutorials want to encourage everyone to give it a go.. But for this one I've hopefully made the drafting process easier by giving more measurements in the form of a reference square around the front and back pieces. For sizing: I'm EU36/US4, but as this is a boxy fit, it would fit with these same measurements for up to EU40/US8 (obviously the fit would be a bit closer then). If you have a very large bust you would just want to adjust the dart a bit.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Front piece:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/1FrontPiece.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="788" data-original-width="800" height="788" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/1FrontPiece.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">Back piece:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/2BackPiece.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="800" height="688" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/2BackPiece.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">II.</b> First step was to sew the shoulders together, right sides facing. Then I added darts, which decided to place on the arm hole instead of the bust since that's where I expected to have some gaping. My darts were about 1.5 cm wide at the start.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/3Dart.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/3Dart.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Dart done and pressed. After this I pinned the sides together right sides facing and sewed those.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/4DartRightSide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/4DartRightSide.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>III.</b> Then moved on to arm holes where I did a bias tape finishing. First pinned by bias all around the arm hole on the right side (starting from the side seam)...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/5PinBias.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="800" height="594" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/5PinBias.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">.. Making sure to overlap the bias like this at the start/end. At the start fold the end of the bias, and overlap the other end by about 1 cm. Then sew all around in the fold.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/6BiasOverlap.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="549" data-original-width="800" height="549" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/6BiasOverlap.jpg" width="800" /></a><span style="text-align: left;">As I was working with quite a thick fabric, I removed some bulk by clipping out the seam allowance at the shoulder and side seams.</span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/7RemoveBulk.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="800" height="604" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/7RemoveBulk.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">Before turning the bias tape onto the reverse, I like to stitch the point where the ends meet.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/8SewEnds.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="800" height="580" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/8SewEnds.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">And then you can turn it onto the reverse and pin down.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/9Pin.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="567" data-original-width="800" height="567" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/9Pin.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">From there you can of course stitch the bias tape down with your machine. I usually hand sew these so I don't have a stitch visible on the right side.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/10SewOnReverse.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/10SewOnReverse.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>IV. </b>Moving onto the neckline! Cut out the mini V at the center of the front piece neck (easiest by just folding in half and cutting at diagonal line. I cut mine about 4 cm deep.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/11CutV.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="800" height="562" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/11CutV.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Opened up:</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/12VCutOut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/12VCutOut.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">V. </b>Now take your facing fabric and slot it inside the top, folding a couple cm at the top. Trace your neckline shape onto the fabric.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/13TraceFacing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/13TraceFacing.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">After tracing, take the fabric out and trace another line at a uniform distance out from the first one (I did about 4 cm). Then cut out your facing. Repeat for the back piece and you should have two pieces of facing that match the front and back necklines, and are just a bit long to go over the shoulder seams (where you'll attach them together).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/14FacingCut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/14FacingCut.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">Now pin the facing on both sides (on right side):</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/15PinFacing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/15PinFacing.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Here's my trick for attaching facing at the shoulders so it ends up perfectly the right size. I first fold the ends of the facing pieces down like this, so they meet exactly at the shoulder seam, pressing with my iron to create strong creases.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/16FoldAtShoulders.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/16FoldAtShoulders.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Those creases then act as your sewing line. Stitch the two pieces together there...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/17SewAtFold.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/17SewAtFold.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">.. Then trim the excess fabric and press open with your iron.</div><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/18Seewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="800" height="565" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/18Seewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">VI.</b> Now for the important prep before turning the facing over. Clip all the inside corners (careful not to clip into your stitch) and cut excess from outside corners. I also trimmed the seam allowance to about 0.5 cm at this point.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/19SewnClipped.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="800" height="585" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/19SewnClipped.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Don't forget to clip the bottom of the mini V. Especially if you plan to machine stitch the facing, make sure it's exactly the same width all around - I cut mine a bit more narrow at this step, 3 cm or so.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/20Closeup.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="800" height="533" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/20Closeup.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Now you can start folding the edges of the facing. When you get to the mini V area, you need to clip into the corner the amount of your fold.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/21Clipped.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="547" data-original-width="800" height="547" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/21Clipped.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Once folded all around, you'll have this.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/22Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="582" data-original-width="800" height="582" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/22Pressed.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">VII.</b> The most exciting part! Flipping the facing onto the reverse & pressing down. As long as you clipped your corners well, it will lie flat nice & neat. All that's left is hand stitching the facing on the reverse (or using your machine if you don't mind the stitch), and hemming the top.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/23OntoRightSide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="800" height="618" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/23OntoRightSide.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">I feel a phase of experimenting with different neckline shapes starting..</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/DIYBoxySquareVCropTop1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="800" height="589" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/DIYBoxySquareVCropTop1.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/DIYBoxySquareVCropTop2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="800" height="580" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/DIYBoxySquareVCropTop2.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/DIYBoxySquareVCropTop4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="800" height="579" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Mini%20V%20Neck%20Top/DIYBoxySquareVCropTop4.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><br /><div>xo,</div><div><br /></div><div>Julia</div></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-28458464910819112682021-08-21T14:27:00.006+04:002021-09-22T11:27:59.609+04:00How To: Loose-Fit Babydoll Dress with Gathered Shoulders and Sleeves<p><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/08/how-to-loose-fit-babydoll-dress-with.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="555" data-original-width="800" height="555" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/DIYGatheredShouldersBabyDollDress5.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>Here's the last thing I sewed when still pregnant, 2 days before delivery. Looking back, I'm proud to say that my resolution not to buy a single piece of maternity clothing stuck until the end, and everything I made while pregnant still works perfectly postpartum (with one exception - the DIY <a href="https://www.instagram.com/tv/CM1q0JmD2Ks/" target="_blank">preggo jeans</a>, which no longer stay on). </p><p><br /></p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/0Toolss.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="800" height="587" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/0Toolss.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-style: italic;">Fabric, 2.2m full-width (150 cm) </i>| <i style="font-style: italic;"> Narrow elastic (to go around your arms) </i>|<i style="font-style: italic;"> Bias tape </i>|<i style="font-style: italic;"> Pins </i>|<i style="font-style: italic;"> Scissors </i>|<i style="font-style: italic;"> Thread & Sewing machine</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-style: italic;"><br /></i></div><p><b>I. </b>Here are my cut top pieces. The main difference was in the length of the shoulderlines, to allow for the gathering on the front piece. I also cut both necklines wide to be able to do gathering in the front and a box pleat in the back. if you wanted to do just a simple round neckline without those details, cut that part about 15 cm wide. For sizing, as you see from the images of the finished dress, the fit is very loose. I'm EU36/US4 but this fit me at the very end of my pregnancy, and would otherwise easily fit at least up to EU40/US8. </p><p>One more thought: If I made this dress again, I'd cut the shoulderlines on the back piece (which govern how wide the finished shoulders are) a bit less wide. With these measurements, I got a bit of a drop shoulder - if you want a more natural shoulder seam placement, take a couple cm off the shoulderline measurement - I'd do about 11 or 12 cm (something a bit more like <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2020/09/how-to-easy-gathered-hem-dress-with.html" target="_blank">this dress here</a>).</p><p>Front:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/1CutFrontPiece.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/1CutFrontPiece.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>Back:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/2BackPiece.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/2BackPiece.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>II. </b>Started by sewing 2 basting stitches (longest stitch on your machine) along the front piece shoulders, and gathering those until they matched the back piece shoulders. Then pinned the shoulders together right sides facing, and sewed together.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/3ShouldersGathered.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/3ShouldersGathered.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>III.</b> Next I added a little gathering detail at the center of the neckline as well.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/4NecklineGather.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/4NecklineGather.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>I had to do my bias binding twice because I forgot the box pleat the first time around (photo below was from the moment I realised that).. More detail on finishin a round neckline with bias <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2015/12/how-to-ruffled-hem-shift-dress-sewing.html" target="_blank">here</a>. The gathering or the pleat don't change anything in the process, you just pin the bias tape over them.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/7NecklineBias.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="545" data-original-width="800" height="545" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/7NecklineBias.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>IV.</b> For the dress hem, I cut 2 rectangles as wide as I could go with the amount of fabric I had, which ended up being 130 cm. Considering my top pieces' total hemline circumference was 72 cm (front) + 64 cm (back) = 136 cm, that got me a 2X ruffle.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/5CutSkirt.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/5CutSkirt.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p><b>V. </b>Also cut my sleeves, with equal logic (as big as I could spare with the fabric I had).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/6CutSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/6CutSleeves.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>Then gathered the centers of the sleeve curves enough for the total length to match the spots for the sleeves on the top..</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/8SleeveGather.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="800" height="602" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/8SleeveGather.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><p>.. And. pinned the sleeves in their places, right sides facing right side of top, and sewed.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/9PinSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/9PinSleeves.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VI. </b>When attaching sleeves, I always like to press their hems at this point, much easier than when the underseam is sewn. Did a double fold.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/10PressSleeveHem.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="600" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/10PressSleeveHem.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VII.</b> To create the bishop sleeve type style, I took a piece of elastic fitting comfortably around my arm below the elbow. Pinned its ends at the edges of the sleeve like so (distance from sleeve hem will determine how much 'cuff' you have).<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/11PinElastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="545" data-original-width="800" height="545" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/11PinElastic.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>Then start a straight stitch or zig-zag at one end of the elastic, then stretch the elastic to the full width of the sleeve, and keep stretched out as you sew along the middle of the elastic all the way.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/12StretchSew.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" height="586" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/12StretchSew.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>This is what you'll have.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/13Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="539" data-original-width="800" height="539" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/13Sewn.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div>.. And on the right side. Repeat for other sleeve.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/14RightSide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="800" height="575" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/14RightSide.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>VIII. </b>To finish the top, pin the sleeve underseams and sides and sew. Hem the sleeves (easy with the pre-pressed folds).</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/15TopDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="522" data-original-width="800" height="522" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/15TopDone.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><b>IX.</b> After that all that"s left is: sewing your 2 skirt rectangles together at the sides (I also added pockets); gathering the waistline enough to match the top hemline; sewing the skirt onto the top; and hemming the dress.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/16GatherDress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="550" data-original-width="800" height="550" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/16GatherDress.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>All done!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/DIYGatheredShouldersBabyDollDress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="800" height="560" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/DIYGatheredShouldersBabyDollDress.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/DIYGatheredShouldersBabyDollDress2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="530" data-original-width="800" height="530" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/DIYGatheredShouldersBabyDollDress2.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/DIYGatheredShouldersBabyDollDress6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="800" height="573" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/DIYGatheredShouldersBabyDollDress6.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/DIYGatheredShouldersBabyDollDress4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="800" height="533" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/WhitePolkadotBabydollBaloonSleeveDress/DIYGatheredShouldersBabyDollDress4.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><br /><p>xo,</p><p>Julia</p></div><br /></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-27060119979554891072021-08-08T17:11:00.007+04:002021-09-22T11:28:08.956+04:00How To: #CottageCore Set - Gathered Neckline Puff Sleeve Top & Tiered Gathered Maxi Skirt<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/08/how-to-cottagecore-set-gathered.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="642" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/DIYGinghamCottageCoreSet3.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>So here's a total experiment that ended up working! Lots of gathers, big sleeves, and easy to selfdraft if you're a beginner. I used a thrifted duvet cover to make this set, and I'd say on the scale of 0 to picnic basket on the farm it's a strong 9. Bonus: breastfeeding friendly if that's a thing for you.</p><p><br /></p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="527" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/0Tools.jpg" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric (I used 100% cotton) 4 m of full width (150 cm) for top + skirt, 1 m of half-width (110 cm) for top only | Scissors | Pins | Elastic (I used 3 cm wide for top hem & skirt waist, and 1.5 cm wide for top sleeves) | Thread & Sewing machine | Didn't make it into the photo, but bias tape maker</i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p><b>I.</b> Here are the measurements of my cut top pieces, you need two of each - at the top you have the 2 sleeve pieces, and at the bottom the front and back top pieces. As this is a gathered style with elasticated details, the same dimensions would work a size or two up from me - I'm EU36/US4, so up to EU38/US6 or EU40/US8. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/1CutPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="634" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/1CutPieces.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>II.</b> Next you'll want to assemble the top by pinning the raglan sleeve seams together, right sides facing (the edges that measure 33 cm above.) Ignore the fact that in this step I had cut the back piece in half - I wasn't sure how big I was going to go with the neckline, so I thought I needed a keyhole detail there. I ended up making the neckline big enough to be pulled on, so no need for the keyhole (due to the gathers of the top, it didn't even end up being a very interesting stylistic detail, since it gets hidden in the gathers). In other words, you can just leave your back piece as is, no cutting in half. Once you've pinned the pieces together, sew the 4 seams and press.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/2Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/2Sewn.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>III. </b>Then fold at the center of the sleeves, right sides facing, and pin & sew the side seams.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/3Sides.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/3Sides.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>IV.</b> Now you're ready to gather the neckline of the top. I usually do 2 gathering stitches (longest stitch on your machine with maximum tension). Pull on the bobbin threads until you have the gathering you want - I gathered enough for the length of the neckline to be about 60 cm. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/4GatheredNeck.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/4GatheredNeck.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Again something you won't need to do when you don't cut your back piece in half.. binding the keyhole.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/5Keyhole.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/5Keyhole.jpg" /></a></div><div><b>V.</b> The photo of this bit turned out a bit blurry, but I first made enough matching bias tape to cover the neckline length using <a href="https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2013/02/how-to-use-a-bias-tape-maker.html" target="_blank">one of these babies</a>, and then pinned my bias tape onto the neckline. I've covered that process in more detail <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2015/12/how-to-ruffled-hem-shift-dress-sewing.html" target="_blank">here</a>. </div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/6Binding.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="623" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/6Binding.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When topstitching bias binding with a machine, I actually prefer to first pin the bias tape on the reverse side of the fabric, so that when I turn it over onto the right side to envelop the neckline, I have more control over getting the topstitch perfect (instead of having to sew on the reverse, not seeing exactly where your bobbin stitches will land). That ended up being irrelevant though, because I decided I didn't want a visible stitch, and hand-sewed the bias tape in its place on the right side. This is what it looked like when done - I also had to add a little loop & button to be able to close up my useless keyhole detail.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/7Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="637" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/7Done.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>VI. </b>Onto the top hem: I first pressed a narrow 0.5 cm fold onto the reverse, then another wider fold, about 1 cm more than the width of my elastic. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/9HemlineElastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/9HemlineElastic.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then sewed two rows of stitches to create the casing for the elastic, leaving a gap to insert it from. Took a piece of elastic that comfortably wrapped around my waist, passed it through with a safety pin, sewed ends together, and closed up the gap in the stitch. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/10Casing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="547" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/10Casing.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And so I had this. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/11ElasticIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/11ElasticIn.jpg" /></a></div><div>With the sleeves, I repeated the same process, just with a less wide elastic.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/12Sleeve.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/12Sleeve.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>VII.</b> For the skirt, I didn't do much documenting since it was a super simple tiered rectangle number. I did 3 tiers, lengths are below, widths as follows: first tier 140 cm (cut from two 70 cm pieces), second 250 cm, third 450 cm (two latter cut from multiple pieces sewn together).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/13SkirtPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/13SkirtPieces.jpg" /></a></div>To begin, I sewed the first tier - two 70 cm wide pieces - together at the sides, and then elasticated the waist the same way I did with the top hem.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/14Skirt.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="557" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/14Skirt.jpg" /></a></div>From there it was just mindless gathering and attaching the 2 other tiers. <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2020/02/how-to-classic-tiered-sundress-with-tie.html" target="_blank">Here are more visuals</a> of that process in case you need. <div><br /></div><div>I prefer to show finished pieces in action in the wild, but the baby life has me stuck inside quite a bit these days.. So a white wall is all I can give🤷♀️</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/DIYGinghamCottageCoreSet2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/DIYGinghamCottageCoreSet2.jpg" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/DIYGinghamCottageCoreSet.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="584" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/DIYGinghamCottageCoreSet.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/DIYGinghamCottageCoreSet5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/DIYGinghamCottageCoreSet5.jpg" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/DIYGinghamCottageCoreSet4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Blue%20Gingham%20Cottagecore%20Set/DIYGinghamCottageCoreSet4.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>xo,</div><div><br /></div><div>Julia</div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-19572621223456807812021-07-25T18:38:00.005+04:002021-09-22T11:28:23.842+04:00How To: Sewing a Square Neckline<p> <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/07/how-to-sewing-square-neckline.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress2.jpg" /></a></p><span><a name='more'></a>I'm back from baby land for a super quick square neck tutorial. I love this type of neckline, it adds a structured geometrical element to a top or dress, especially when combined with other contrasting shapes like voluminous sleeves. You could use this method to hack lots of patterns - I combined it here with elasticated puff sleeves and a simple gathered hem.</span><div><br /></div><div><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></div><div><i><br /></i><div><br /></div><div><b>I. </b>Here are my top pieces with measurements - if hacking a pattern, just cut your top or dress piece out and replace the neckline shape by cutting out a rectangle like so. If selfdrafting a dress or top, I've included the other measurements of the top pieces as well. I cut the back piece neckline just a couple cm deeper than the front (you can sort of make out the difference through the fabric). I went for a loose-fitting style, I'm EU36/US4 but this would also fit a size up.<div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/1CutTop.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/1CutTop.jpg" /></a></div></div><div><b>II. </b>Next I sewed the top shoulders together & cut the facing piece - a rectangle that matches the neckline. I was working with very limited fabric, so I cut mine from scrap pieces which I sewed together. A much easier way to get to the same outcome is to lay the top (with shoulder seams done) on your fabric, and trace the neckline rectangle. Then measure about 4 cm out from your rectangle (or however wide you want the lined neckline to be) and cut out the facing in one single piece. Then pin it right sides facing onto the neckline, and sew all around. Make sure you clip the corners - careful not to cut into your stitch - to release the tension before turning over.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/2LiningPinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/2LiningPinned.jpg" /></a></div><b>III. </b>Now flip the lining onto the reverse side of the top and press. Then fold the edges of the lining under (I did a 0.5 cm fold).. And you're ready to sew all around, right at the edge of the lining piece.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/3Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/3Pressed.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The last thing I did was to add strings to each side of the neckline at the back, about 5 cm down from the shoulder, to be able to tie together and keep the neckline from falling down at the shoulders.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><b>IV. </b>You're done! Continue assembling your garment based on your pattern, or if you want to recreate this dress: I did puff sleeves (I have quite a few posts that show different styles, <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/02/trends-puff-sleeve-button-up-blouse.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2019/03/how-to-balloon-sleeve-top.html" target="_blank">here</a> for example), + a gathered hem from 2 rectangles, each double the width of my top piece hemline (about 120 cm). You could also do an exposed ruffle like I did <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/01/how-to-tiered-dress-with-exposed.html" target="_blank">here</a>.<span><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/4Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/4Done.jpg" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The only thing I will change later on is to switch the tie-up strings at the back to something lighter. I didn't have any suitable ribbon while making this, so made some from the same fabric, but it's too stiff for this purpose.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress.jpg" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="603" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress1.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="553" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress4.jpg" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress3.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/White%20Square%20Neck%20Dress/DIY_SquareNeckDress6.jpg" /></a></div>xo,</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Julia</div></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-12404925671005119652021-05-24T11:44:00.003+04:002021-09-22T11:28:37.401+04:00Techniques: Easiest Welt Pockets I Know - Using Just 1 Piece of Fabric [On Unlined Coat]<p><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/05/techniques-easiest-welt-pockets-i-know.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/EasySingleWeltPocket_Tutorial.jpg" /></a><br /></p><span></span><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a>I've sewn welt pockets for years but they still made me a tiny bit nervous... Until I came up with this super simple method! And as I said in my IG story - I know there is probably someone out there that has figured this out before me. Maybe even done a tutorial on it. But I haven't come across it, so here goes for the benefit of all welt pocket fearing seamstresses out there.<p></p><p>I'll also include steps for how to French seam the pockets, to create cleanly finished pockets on an unlined coat. But the method of course also works on lined garments (you can just stop at step VI).</p><p><br /></p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><br /></p><p><b>I. </b>Start with your garment you want to add the pocket to, and mark its position (a line that corresponds to your pocket opening width). I wanted mine positioned at an angle, I find that more natural on a coat.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/1Marked.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="567" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/1Marked.jpg" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><b>II. </b>Then cut your rectangular pocket piece. That's right, <i>piece</i>, singular. Most welt pocket methods involve several pieces, this one, only one. To figure out the size of your piece: </p><p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Length:</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">2D + 3WH + 5 cm</div><p></p><p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Width:</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">W + 5 cm</div><p></p><p></p><div style="text-align: left;">Where:</div><i><div style="text-align: left;"><i>D = Desired pocket depth</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>W = Desired pocket opening width (width of the welt)</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>WH = Welt height </i></div></i><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">That may sound complicated but hopefully my example will make it clearer: In my case, I wanted a pocket about 19 cm deep (D), 14 cm wide at the opening where you put your hand in, and I wanted the welt itself to be 2.5 cm in height. So here's what my piece ended up looking like:<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/2CutPocketDimensions.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="590" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/2CutPocketDimensions.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">If your finished pocket needs to be an <i>exact</i> size, then you need to also account for seam allowance as follows:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li style="text-align: left;">If doing a lined garment, add your seam allowance x 2 to the width of your rectangle (I use 0.5 cm seam allowances)</li><li style="text-align: left;">If doing an unlined garment (like what I did here), to account for the French seams, add 4 x your seam allowance to the width</li><li style="text-align: left;">No need to worry about seam allowance taking up pocket depth - the bottom of the pocket is folded, not sewn</li></ul><div style="text-align: left;">Here's a closeup of the rectangle that corresponds to the size of the welt, which you want to trace at the top of your pocket piece, on the reverse side of the fabric.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/3TraceCloseup.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/3TraceCloseup.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>III. </b>Now align the top of the rectangle you've traced on your pocket piece, with the pocket position line marked on the garment - right sides facing, and pin in place. Easiest way to do this is to take 2 pins and put them thought the corners of the rectangle on the pocket piece, and then through the ends of the line on the garment. Then sew around the rectangle.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/3Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/3Sewn.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After sewing, carefully clip inside the rectangle and into the corners like so:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/4Cut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/4Cut.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. Which will allow you to flip the pocket piece through the opening & onto the reverse, and press.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/5Flipped.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="677" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/5Flipped.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">IV. </b>Now comes the mindblowing part where you create the welt out of that same piece. BY FOLDING. Just fold the pocket piece over the pocket opening, up against the top of the opening, and then back down over itself. You want to perfectly cover the pocket opening with this fold - not too little, not too much.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/6Folded.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/6Folded.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Secure with pins on both sides - I also hand-stitched the folds down at the sides to make sure they stayed put.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/7Pinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/7Pinned.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">On the right side, you'll have this - it's already starting to look like the real thing!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/8RightSide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/8RightSide.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Hand-stitch the sides, or you can of course also machine stitch carefully, right at the edges.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/9StitchSides.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="538" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/9StitchSides.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">V. </b><i>If your garment will be lined, you can skip this step. </i>If doing an unlined garment, you want to finish the raw edges on the seam allowances to keep them from unraveling. Just lift the pocket out of the way and zig-zag the seam allowance at the bottom..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/11FinishRawEdges.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="566" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/11FinishRawEdges.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And at the top:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/12RawEdges.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="619" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/12RawEdges.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">VI.</b> Now you're ready to create the pocket itself - just fold the pocket piece in half over itself, aligning all the edges.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/13FoldPin.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/13FoldPin.jpg" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And sew around.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/14SewAround.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/14SewAround.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">If doing a lined garment, the pocket will be covered by the lining, so you can just leave it at that. You'll have this on the right side:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/15RightSide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="550" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/15RightSide.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The final step is to stitch the upper edge of the pocket opening on the right side - skip to last step IX. If doing an unlined garment and want to do French seams on the pocket, continue on.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>VII.</b> Trim your seam allowances around the pocket to a minimum, about 2-3 mm.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/16Trim.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/16Trim.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then pull the pocket through its opening onto the right side, push corners out gently, and pin all around. Press with your iron.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/17TurnAndPin.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/17TurnAndPin.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">.. And sew all around again, with a seam allowances just a tiny bit more than what you trimmed the first seam allowance at.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/18SewAgain.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/18SewAgain.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">To reduce bulk at the top corners, I clipped those lightly at this point (they will be hidden away so won't unravel because of this).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/19ClipCorners.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/19ClipCorners.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then you're ready to pull the pocket back onto the reverse side, push the sides/corners out, and press the pocket. And you'l have a beautifully French seamed finish that can handle being seen <span face="arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #4d5156; font-size: 14px;">❤︎</span> The dashed lines indicate where I blind-stitched the pocket to the coat on the reverse in the next step.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/20TurnPress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/20TurnPress.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>VIII. </b>Just a couple finishing touches left! Before sewing the pocket down on the reverse, and trimmed the little triangular seam allowance bits on the sides of the pocket opening, to make sure they weren't peeking from under. After that, I went on to blind-stitch the pocket onto the reverse of the coat (indicated by the dashed lines in the photo above). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/21TrimExcess.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="623" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/21TrimExcess.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">IX. </b>Last, on the right side, I blind-stitched the upper edge of the pocket opening on the right side, to the lower layer of the pocket - NOT the welt (that would close your pocket for you). Again, you could machine stitch, but I prefer blind-stitching as it creates a much cleaner finish without a visible stitch.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/22StitchUpperEdge.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/22StitchUpperEdge.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">That's it!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/EasySingleWeltPocket_Tutorial2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Red%20Coat%20Single%20Welt%20Pockets/EasySingleWeltPocket_Tutorial2.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">xo,</div><div style="text-align: left;">Julia</div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-76869105306573260962021-05-19T14:31:00.003+04:002021-09-22T11:28:50.793+04:00How To: Oversized T-Shirt Maxi Dress with Gathered Sides<p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/05/how-to-oversized-t-shirt-maxi-dress.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="683" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_GatheredSidesTShirtMaxiDress1.jpg" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div style="text-align: left;">Ever since I made <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2018/11/basics-easy-gathered-front-back-t-shirt.html" target="_blank">this dress</a> in '18, I've been wondering about another version done in reverse - having the gathers on the sides, instead of the front and the back. Here it is, and I think I like it more this way! You get amazing volume and movement in the hem, but the front and back have a simpler look (and also showcase a pattern better).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I went for a fabric that's a bit more hippie than usual for me, but this retro bedsheet I found in a secondhand shop was too soft not to be worn. <b>NOTE:</b> I'm conscious when buying bedsheets from charity shops to sew with, since I know those shops are an important source for lower cost household items for many people. So I focus on bedsheets/curtains/tablecloths that either have stains or holes in them, making it more likely they'll end up in the trash. That was the case with this one - it was ripped in a few places, but I could easily cut around those areas. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">In terms of fit, this dress is super flexible - I'm EU36/US4 but currently 37 weeks pregnant, and you can see there's plenty of space for the bump. These measurements would easily work for up to EU40/US8, still maintaining a pretty loose fit.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric (I used a secondhand single duvet cover, size 1.5 m by 2.1 m and had some leftover, so equivalent to 2.5-3 m of full-width fabric) </i><b>|</b><i> Bias tape </i><b>|</b><i> Pins </i><b>|</b><i> Scissors </i><b>| </b><i> Thread & Sewing machine (+also used my serger but not necessary)</i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><b>I. </b>Here's my cut main dress pieces - the shape looks odd but stay with me:) Identical front & back pieces - I only adjusted the front neckline to be a bit deeper later on. (And yes, I was lazy not picking apart the folded duvet seam at the hem, I did that later..)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/1CutDress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="626" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/1CutDress.jpg" /></a></div>Next I cut out my sleeves:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/2CutSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/2CutSleeves.jpg" /></a></div>And - I forgot to photograph - but for the sides I cut out two rectangles: Length corresponding to the cutouts on the dress + seam allowance (107 cm + 1cm = 108 cm) - and width about 2.5 times the width of the cutouts (17 cm x 2 = 34 cm, 34 cm x 2.5 = 85 cm, which I rounded to 90 cm). <div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>II. </b>Started construction by pinning the dress pieces together at shoulders, right sides facing, and sewed those (if you don't have a serger, you can do French seams, zig-zag the edge, or use your computer's serger-imitation stitch if it has one). <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/3Shoulders.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/3Shoulders.jpg" /></a></div><b>III. </b>Next pinned my sleeves in place and sewed them..<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/4PinSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/4PinSleeves.jpg" /></a></div><b>IV</b>. .. And then the sleeve underseams and sides.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/5Sides.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="539" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/5Sides.jpg" /></a></div><b>V. </b>Now it was time to fill in the cutouts on the sides. I took my two rectangles, and on one short edge of each, did a basting stitch (longest stitch on your machine) with highest thread tension, to gather the fabric, then pulled on the bobbin threads to adjust the gathers to match the width of the cutout. I forgot to take photos at this point, but <a href="https://youtu.be/QLw7dh2lOy0" target="_blank">here's a good video on gathering</a> if you're new to it.</div><div>Once I had the gathering done, I pinned the pieces in their spots in the cutouts, right sides facing, and sewed the horizontal seam:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/6AddGatheredSide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="503" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/6AddGatheredSide.jpg" /></a></div>.. And before sewing the vertical seams, very important to clip a notch in the dress piece at the corners, to remove tension and turn the fabric so the long edge of the rectangle aligns with the vertical edge of the cutout. Then just sew down both sides of the rectangles, and finish either with your serger or zig-zag.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/7Clipped.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/7Clipped.jpg" /></a></div><b>VI. </b>After pressing, you should have a nice & clean corner on the right side.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/8RightSide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/8RightSide.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The rest of the finishes were nothing new - I did the neckline with bias tape like with <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2015/12/how-to-ruffled-hem-shift-dress-sewing.html" target="_blank">this dress</a>, and finished the sleeves and the hem of the dress with a double fold.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_GatheredSidesTShirtMaxiDress3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="784" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_GatheredSidesTShirtMaxiDress3.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_GatheredSidesTShirtMaxiDress4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="779" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_GatheredSidesTShirtMaxiDress4.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_GatheredSidesTShirtMaxiDress5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_GatheredSidesTShirtMaxiDress5.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_GatheredSidesTShirtMaxiDress6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Yellow%20Gathered%20Sides%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_GatheredSidesTShirtMaxiDress6.jpg" /></a></div>xo,</div><div><br /></div><div>Julia</div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-28594795666195038432021-05-02T20:50:00.002+04:002021-09-22T11:28:59.544+04:00How To: Comfy, Loose T-Shirt & Shorts Lounge Set<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/05/how-to-comfy-loose-t-shirt-shorts.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/DIY_LoungeSet_ExposedSeams_1.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>Since March'20, I've made too many versions of this set to even count.. In <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CMbxo_8lw4o/" target="_blank">black jersey</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CNKuvAoMS0N/" target="_blank">lilac french terry</a>, a more <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CME7FC2lF8m/" target="_blank">pajama-esque version in cotton</a>... After tons of requests I finally got around to documenting a tutorial! I wanted to change this one up a bit, so did exposed seam details all over.. But you could of course just keep it simple with regular seams.</p><p><br /></p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="555" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/0Tools.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Cozy fabric (I used a knit I found at a secondhand store), 1.6 m, 1.2m wide piece </i><b>|</b><i> Scissors </i><b>|</b><i> Thread & Sewing machine </i><b>|</b><i> Elastic to go around your waist</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">SHORTS</h4><div style="text-align: left;"><b>I.</b> First cut my shorts pieces - I'm EU36/US4 normally, but with pregnancy been focusing on elasticated styles I can also wear afterwards. These measurements get you a really loose fitting, high waisted pair, easily going up to EU40/US8.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/2ShortsCut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/2ShortsCut.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>II.</b> Started by pinning the center/crotch seams together, right sides facing, and sewing those. Also finished the front piece sides with my serger (you can zig-zag as well):</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/4ShortCenterSeams.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/4ShortCenterSeams.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>III.</b> For the sides, I wanted to create an exposed seam, so pinned the sides together like so (back piece on top, overlapping with the front piece side)..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/5SideSeams.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="527" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/5SideSeams.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And top-stitched a couple rows to secure. Then trimmed the excess with my scissors, and had this.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/6SidesDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="539" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/6SidesDone.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>IV. </b>Onto the waistline. I first folded it down once on the reverse (about 1 cm), and then again, creating a fold just a bit wider than my elastic. Sewed around, leaving a gap for the elastic, inserted it with a safety pin, sewed ends together, and closed the stitch gap (yeah, I forgot to take photos.. but you can see the exact same process in more detail <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2019/08/basics-loose-fit-shorts-with.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2020/04/how-to-linen-set-tie-up-sides-top.html" target="_blank">here</a> - In that first link there's also my method for how to pin the elastic in place so it's evenly distributed before sewing). Then I marked my top-stitching spots (I did 3 stitches) with pins, and sewed around..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/7Elastic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/7Elastic.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. Stretching the fabric out as I went.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/8StretchOut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/8StretchOut.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My ready top-stitched waistline:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/9TopStitched.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/9TopStitched.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">To finish the shorts, I did a simple double-fold at the hems.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><h4 style="text-align: left;">TOP</h4><div style="text-align: left;"><b>V. </b>Cut top pieces (same sizing logic as with the shorts).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/3TopCut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/3TopCut.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>VI. </b>First I used the same method as with the shorts sides seams, to do the top shoulders & sides.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/10ShoulderSideSeams.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/10ShoulderSideSeams.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>VII.</b> Then sewed my sleeve underseams..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/11SleeveUnderseams.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/11SleeveUnderseams.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And pinned the sleeves in their spots, right sides facing, to sew all around.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/12PinSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/12PinSleeves.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So I had this..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/13Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="582" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/13Sewn.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And after pressing seam allowances towards the top, I top-stitched on right side.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/14TopStitched.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="617" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/14TopStitched.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>VIII.</b> I decided to add the exposed detail to the sleeve hems as well, by cutting a strip of fabric the same width as the side seam, sewing it into a loop, and pinning on the sleeve:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/15SleeveDetail.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/15SleeveDetail.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Sewed around..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/17PressedStitched.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/17PressedStitched.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">.. And flipped it over itself, pressing & top-stitching again. Trimmed excess to create a similar look I had on the shoulders & side seams.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/16Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="605" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/16Sewn.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>IX. </b>Then the neckline. When doing neckline bands on stretchy fabric, I usually cut the neckband about 90% of the total circumference of the neckline. In this case my neckline was 77 cm, so I cut the neckline strip to 70 cm, 3.5 cm wide.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/18NeckBand.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/18NeckBand.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To prep, I first marked the quarters on the neckline, starting from one of the shoulder seams. Did the same on the neckline strip, which I had sewn into a loop.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/19Quarters.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/19Quarters.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then pinned the strip along the neckline, right side of strip to reverse of top, first alining the quarters (pink pins) and then adding pins all around, stretching the neckline strip just enough to match nicely with the curve of the neckline.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/20Pinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/20Pinned.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Sewed around..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/21Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/21Sewn.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And flipped the neckline band onto right side, pinning in place..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/22Folded.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/22Folded.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And top-stitching on right side. Trimmed excess again.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/23Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/23Sewn.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As with the shorts, I hemmed the top with a basic double fold.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/DIY_LoungeSet_ExposedSeams_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/DIY_LoungeSet_ExposedSeams_2.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/DIY_LoungeSet_ExposedSeams_3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/DIY_LoungeSet_ExposedSeams_3.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/DIY_LoungeSet_ExposedSeams_4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/DIY_LoungeSet_ExposedSeams_4.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/DIY_LoungeSet_ExposedSeams_5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Beige%20Lounge%20Set/DIY_LoungeSet_ExposedSeams_5.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">xo,</div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Julia</div></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-27625279251363568182021-04-17T09:28:00.003+04:002021-09-22T11:29:09.097+04:00How To: Bandeau Maxi Dress with Spaghetti Straps & Low, Gathered Tie-Up Back Detail<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/04/how-to-bandeau-maxi-dress-with.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress1.jpg" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I know I say this all the time, but this really is one of my favourite makes ever. In it come together two things I've had on my inspiration board for a while - the <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/281545414195073659/" target="_blank">Cecile Bahnsen bandeau + gathered hem silhouette</a>, and <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/281545414188200641/" target="_blank">this back detail</a> I've pinned at least a couple years ago (designer unknown). Get some live footage of me sewing this up <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CNh8pywjJ5s/" target="_blank">in this IG Reel</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I made this dress from an almost no-stretch cotton, so I cut the top pieces along the bias for them to have some stretch for comfort. If you're a beginner and prefer something simpler, I'd use a fabric that in itself already has stretch. Also, if you're more busty, I would probably recommend doing a more structured top style - <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2017/09/how-to-gingham-tie-back-crop-top.html" target="_blank">for example something like this</a>. I'm not, so I could get away with just the stretch from the bias cut, I didn't even do darts. If you'd like to add those, check<a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2015/01/wardrobe-staples-minimal-90s-inspired.html" target="_blank"> this</a> blast from the past post.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="541" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Fabric, 2.5 m full width (I used a light premium cotton) </i><b>| </b><i> Scissors </i><b>| </b><i> Pins & Safety pin for inserting elastic </i><b>| </b><i> Matching thread, sewing machine (I also used my serger but you can zig-zag as well) </i><b>| </b><i> Not pictured: elastic (I used 0.7 cm wide), about 45 cm</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>I.</b> I started by cutting my top pieces - I made it lined so two of the front piece, and in total 4 of the back tie-up pieces on the right. Given the tie-up element + elasticated back, this dress is very flexible in size. I'm EU36/US4, but with these same measurements this would work at least 2 sizes up, if not potentially 3 (especially if you use a fabric with stretch).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">NOTE: I wasn't sure at this point how long I would want my top piece to be, so I cut extra. Later on, I ended up taking the seam connecting the top to the skirt in several times, my final top length at the front being only 14 cm. So if you want the same look as on my finished dress, you can cut your pieces less long at this stage already.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/1CutTop.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="581" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/1CutTop.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>II.</b> Next I cut two rectangles for the skirt (110 cm was the right length for me to achieve ankle length, adjust for yourself - from where you want your top piece ending, to hem). <br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/2CutSKirt.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/2CutSKirt.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>III.</b> Then I prepped the back piece of my skirt. I first double folded one 90-cm edge, and sewed across two stitches to create the casing for the elastic. Stitches need to be spaced out just a bit more than the width of the elastic.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/3ElasticCasing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/3ElasticCasing.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">.. Then I inserted my 45 cm piece of elastic, and secured it in place with a stitch at both ends.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/4ElasticIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="545" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/4ElasticIn.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>IV.</b> To prep the front part of the skirt, I sewed two basting stitches and gathered the waistline to match the width of my top front piece. Tip: the easiest way to gather is to set your machine to its longest stitch setting + highest tension setting, and just sew - the fabric will already gather nicely, and you'll just need to adjust the gathers after. Once I had done this, I felt the result was just a bit too heavy, so I trimmed away about 8 cm of width on both sides. I did this by cutting out triangular pieces since I did still want to maintain the volume in the hem. After that I had the amount of gathers I liked..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/5GatheredFront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="529" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/5GatheredFront.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. Corresponding to the width of the top front piece (I had also sewed the top piece side seams at this point. forgot to take a pic..)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/6Width.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/6Width.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>V.</b> Next bit is optional, but who doesn't want pockets. I cut two pairs and pinned them onto the front and back pieces, taking care to pin the ones on the front skirt piece 1 cm lower than on the back piece (reason being the way I was going to attach the top to the skirt).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/7Pockets.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/7Pockets.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">I first overlocked the pocket area (you could zig-zag) & also added a straight stitch to secure the pockets in place..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/8Attached.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="566" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/8Attached.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And then pinned the skirt sides together, aligning the pockets - which means the front piece waistline will be a bit higher than the back piece - on purpose.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/9SIdePinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="593" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/9SIdePinned.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">VI. </b>Because I had trimmed some width off of my front skirt piece, I had to adjust the sides down from the pockets a bit so they'd match, but that was no big deal.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/10Adjust.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="543" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/10Adjust.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">I sewed the sides (making sure you go around the pockets and don't sew them shut), and had my skirt ready.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/11SkirtDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/11SkirtDone.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>VII.</b> Onto attaching the top to the skirt. I first had sewed the top side pieces to the main front piece, to create two long top pieces, the right side and the lining. Then I took one of them and pinned the gathered front of the skirt to the front piece, right sides facing. Sewed across.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/12PinTopFront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/12PinTopFront.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So I had this.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/13Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/13Sewn.jpg" /></a></div><b>VIII.</b> Then I made my straps, using <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2017/12/techniques-quick-easy-thin-shoulder.html" target="_blank">this technique</a>. I made my straps 60 cm long each, which turned out to be the exact right length for me. I attached the strap ends to their spots on the top with a couple stitches first..<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/14Straps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/14Straps.jpg" /></a></div><div><b>IX.</b> .. Before taking the top lining piece, and pinning it on top, all around. (You can see the strap ends peeking up from in between).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/15PinLining.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="561" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/15PinLining.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then I sewed around, except for the front part, and after turning right side out and pressing, I had this. The key is to make sure you align the stitch that ends at the side seam, with the top of the back piece. This way the way the top attaches to the skirt at the sides is clean.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/16Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/16Pressed.jpg" /></a></div>At this point I tried the dress on, and decided I wanted a shorter bandeau part (closer to my original Cecile Banhsen inspiration dresses). I ended up taking the seam in 3 times little by little (I did this with a curved stitch, started at the side seam at my original stitch attaching the top to the skirt, curved out towards the center of the front piece, and back in).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/17TakenIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/17TakenIn.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To end up with a top piece 14 cm long at the front, that I was finally happy with. I also did a top-stitch all around the top part.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/17Final.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/17Final.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>X. </b>On the reverse, I folded the lining under and hand-stitched it in place for a clean finish.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/18Reverse.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/18Reverse.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>XI.</b> Last were the shoulder straps. There are a couple options.. If you were to leave them attached only at the front, you could tie them up behind the neck and leave the back open:<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/19OpenBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="659" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/19OpenBack.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. But I wanted to create the back from my inspiration photo so I hand sewed the strap ends onto the back piece.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/20StrapsIn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="634" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/20StrapsIn.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">That was it! Just hemmed the dress with a wide double fold. My 7-month bump is very happy with the space for it:)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="559" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress2.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress3.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress5.jpg" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress7.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress8.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="584" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Teal%20Low%20Back%20Strappy%20Tie%20Up%20Maxi%20Dress/LowBack_Strappy_TieUp_MaxiDress4.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">xo,</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Julia</div></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-22473204097467484372021-03-23T16:26:00.003+04:002021-09-22T11:29:20.047+04:00How To: Silky Tie-Up Front Maxi Dress with Shirred Puff Sleeves<p> <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/03/how-to-silky-tie-up-front-maxi-dress.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="538" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_TieFront_TwoTone_MaxiDress_1.jpg" /></a><br /></p><span></span><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a>This has got to be my most requested tutorial in ages! I made <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CMHZ4D9lJjM/" target="_blank">this short version</a> a couple weeks ago - didn't do a guide at the time, just felt like sewing without documenting the steps.. But since I've received so many messages asking about the pattern, I decided to make a maxi version, and this time share how <span face="arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #4d5156; font-size: 14px;">♥</span><p></p><p>Note that this dress has a lot of opportunities for mods. I'll call them out in the steps, but you could do a top instead of a dress, change the dress look by just switching out the hem into a different style/length, and also the sleeves. The material choice is another way to change the look you'll get - I used a silk blend, and with another flowy fabric (crepe or satin for example) you'll get the same drapey look. You could also go for more structure and fullness in the hem by using a cotton or a linen. I'm probably going to be making one more version like that..</p><p><br /></p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric (I used about 3 m of full-width since I cut the hem at a bias - if you did a rectangular hem, 2 m full width should do it) </i><b>| </b><i>Scissors </i><b>| </b><i> Pins </i><b>| </b><i>Didn't make it in the photo: small piece of bias tape to finish the back of the neckline + shirring elastic (if going for shirred sleeves)</i></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>I.</b> I started by cutting out my top pieces - these measurements made a loose-fitting dress for my EU36/US4 size, which would also easily fit a size up. Note the front pieces are layered up in the photo - you need 2 of each (the main pieces + lining pieces). When cutting be sure to cut them as mirror images. Also - at this point I cut the tie-up straps equal lengths, but later on when I sewed them I made the other about 7 cm shorter (I prefer the asymmetrical look). If you want you could cut the other pair of strap pieces a bit shorter here already.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/1CutPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="555" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/1CutPieces.jpg" /></a></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>II. </b>First I finished my back piece neckline with some bias tape. Pinned it along the neckline curve on the right side of the fabric:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/2NecklineBias1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="550" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/2NecklineBias1.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><p style="text-align: left;">.. And sewed along the fold:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/3Necklinebias2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/3Necklinebias2.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then folded the bias onto the reverse, pressing, and sewing right next to the edge:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/4NecklineDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="545" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/4NecklineDone.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>III. </b>To prep the fronts, I first pinned the strap pieces in their spots & sewed them on.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/5PinFronts.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/5PinFronts.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">.. Then I pinned the lining and the top piece together, and sewed down from the shoulder line, and around the tie-up strap..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/6PinLining.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/6PinLining.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">.. Creating a half-circle shape with the stitch where the tie-up strap is joined - to give room for tying the knot. Cut out the excess there and also clipped the corners of the tie-up strap, but didn't turn right side out quite yet.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/7Sewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/7Sewn.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">IV.</b> Next up was attaching the fronts to the back piece at the shoulders. To make the process easier & ensure all layers got positioned correctly, I first took one front piece, opened it up right side facing up, and pinned the shoulder line of the back piece to the shoulder line of the front piece lining (right sides facing). At this point, make sure the back piece neckline is right against the neckline seam of the front piece & its lining. Sew that in place. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/8Shoulder.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/8Shoulder.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next part is difficult to get in a photo, but you just fold the other side of the front piece on top, aligning the shoulder line & sandwiching the back piece inside - then sew the 3 layers together, and trim the corner. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/9ShoulderSewn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="555" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/9ShoulderSewn.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As long as you made sure the back piece neckline is slotted right against the seam attaching the front piece lining, when you turn the whole thing right side out, it should be super clean on both sides:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/10Reverse.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/10Reverse.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/11RightSide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/11RightSide.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And you can proceed to pressing the whole front piece, and you'll have this. Repeat to attach the other front piece to the opposite back piece shoulder.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/12DoneFront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/12DoneFront.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And you'll have a ready top part!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/12DoneTop.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="648" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/12DoneTop.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">V.</b> Moving onto the skirt bit! Here's where the World is your oyster. I chose to make this one into a maxi dress with a bias-cut hem - I'll go through that below, and then explain how to get the look on the previous <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CMHZ4D9lJjM/" target="_blank">shorter version</a>. This could of course also become a top by simply adding a shorter hem extension.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Here are the measurements of my cut skirt pieces (there's more guidance on how to cut a skirt on the bias <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2019/03/trends-bias-cut-silk-slip-skirt.html" target="_blank">in this post</a>). Wider back piece because I wanted to gather it a bit, and leave the front ungathered.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/13CutSkirt.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/13CutSkirt.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">To make a bit of space on the front piece for attaching the top, I measured the center point of the skirt front piece, then sewed a small piece of fabric on the right side along a curve (I'll admit, not perfectly, this fabric was super slinky..)</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/14CenterOpening.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/14CenterOpening.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Clipped the seam allowance along the mini curve, and flipped the piece of fabric onto the reverse. There just folded it under itself, and sewed to create this little half-circle opening. It wasn't perfect, but it would be covered by the tie-up straps so I wasn't too bothered.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/15Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/15Done.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For the skirt part on the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CMHZ4D9lJjM/" target="_blank">green mini version</a>: Same logic as above, except I didn't cut the skirt pieces on the bias - just 2 regular rectangles, size 90 cm by 50 cm. I first did the little semi-circle opening on one of the pieces, sewed the sides together, and then gathered the whole distance around with a basting stitch, before attaching to the top. Finally I added a 8 cm wide half-circle piece as a little hem detail (same way as I did on <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2019/05/basics-easy-mini-skirt-with-frill-hem.html" target="_blank">this project</a>).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">VI.</b> Before pinning the front pieces to the skirt front, I sewed the top main piece and the lining together to make sure everything stayed in order when attaching the 3 layers. Then pinned in place, right sides facing, like so:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/16PinToptoSkirt.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/16PinToptoSkirt.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After sewing across both sides, I had the dress front part constructed. I pressed the seam allowance downwards, and on the reverse, hand-stitched it down on both sides of the little center window, to make sure it wouldn't flip about & become visible.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/17Attached.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="539" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/17Attached.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">VII.</b> At the back, I took the skirt piece, added a basting stitch and gathered until it matched my back top piece width:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/18GatheredBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/18GatheredBack.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">.. Sewed and pressed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/19BackDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/19BackDone.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>VIII.</b> Last bit was the sleeves - also an opportunity to change the dress up. I decided to go for gathering at the shoulder, with shirred hems. There was also a riveting vote going on on my IG stories about the colourways, and this was the winning combo. My cut sleeve piece:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/20CutSleeve.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/20CutSleeve.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>IX.</b> I added a basting stitch and gathered the tops of the sleeves first - just enough for the sleeve curve length to match their spots on the dress.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/21GatheredSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="526" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/21GatheredSleeves.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then pinned them in their places and sewed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/22PinSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/22PinSleeves.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">From there, if you wanted the cuffed sleeve style I did on the green dress, that was done using the same method as with <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/02/trends-puff-sleeve-button-up-blouse.html" target="_blank">this top</a>. I wanted something different here, so went for shirring. First I hemmed the sleeves with a double fold:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/23HemSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="577" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/23HemSleeves.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then added 8 rows of shirring (more detail on how to do this <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2018/05/how-to-minimal-puff-sleeve-blouse-with.html" target="_blank">here</a>).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/24Shirred.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/24Shirred.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">After that, the only thing left was to sew the sleeve underseams and dress sides together. I did french seams there, and left a slit on one side. Since I cut the skirt on the bias, I let the dress hang for 24 hrs, then trimmed it a few cm to my desired ankle lenght, and hemmed with a double fold.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">If you make your version, send me a pic on IG, I'd love to see!!</div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_TieFront_TwoTone_MaxiDress_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_TieFront_TwoTone_MaxiDress_2.jpg" /></a></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_TieFront_TwoTone_MaxiDress_3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="531" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_TieFront_TwoTone_MaxiDress_3.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_TieFront_TwoTone_MaxiDress_4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_TieFront_TwoTone_MaxiDress_4.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_TieFront_TwoTone_MaxiDress_5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Tie-Front%20Two%20Tone%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_TieFront_TwoTone_MaxiDress_5.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">xo,</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Julia</div></div></div></div></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-11188698612121394412021-03-17T15:35:00.006+04:002021-09-22T11:29:29.676+04:00How To: Simple Pull-On Silk T-Shirt with Round Neck<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/03/how-to-simple-pull-on-silk-t-shirt-with.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/DIY_RoundNeckSilkTShirt2.jpg" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span><a name='more'></a></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Quick little project I sewed in 1.5 hrs or so, from some leftover silk blend fabric! The material in a shirt like this makes a big difference - if you're after the more put together feel, the drape of a silk or a crepe will give this shirt a more blousy vibe (vs. a cotton, linen or knit which would result in a more casual look).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="544" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/0Tools.jpg" /></a></div><i><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric (I used a silk blend), 1m full-width </i><b>|</b><i> Small piece of interfacing </i><b>|</b><i> Scissors </i><b> |</b><i> Pins </i><b>|</b><i> Thread, sewing machine, serger if you have </i><b>|</b><i> Not pictured but I ended up using some bias tape to finish the sleeves (not required)</i></div></i><div><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>I. </b>Cut pieces with measurements - These get you a shirt that fits EU36-38/US4-6 loosely, for EU40/US8 slightly more fitted.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/1CutPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/1CutPieces.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I also cut my interfacing pieces for the neckline facing - I just used the cut top pieces to trace the curve of the neckline, and cut out my pieces:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/2Interfacing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/2Interfacing.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then I placed the interfacing on the reverse of my fabric, pressed with generous steam to attach..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/3Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/3Pressed.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">.. Then cut out the pieces and finished the outside edges with my serger (you could also zig-zag).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/4Overlocked.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/4Overlocked.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>II. </b>Moving on to the shoulders, where I did French seams. First pinned the shoulders together, wrong sides of fabric facing, sewed, and trimmed the seam allowance down to just 3mm or so:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/5Shoulder1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="584" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/5Shoulder1.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">And then flipped over, right sides facing, and sewed again to enclose the first seam allowance into the fold - creating a neat French seam.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/5Shoulder2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="524" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/5Shoulder2.jpg" /></a></div><b><div style="text-align: left;"><b>III. </b>To start with the neckline, I first double-checked I had the size of the facing pieces right by placing them around the neckline, then sewed them together at the short ends to create a circle. </div></b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/6Facing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="541" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/6Facing.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then pinned the facing, right side facing right side of top, along the neckline, and sewed all around.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/7FacingPinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/7FacingPinned.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">After sewing, it's important to clip the seam allowance at steady intervals to remove tension from the curve:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/8SewnClipped.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/8SewnClipped.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And then you're ready to flip the facing onto the reverse, and press!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/9Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/9Pressed.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You could leave it as-is if you want a clean, non-stitched look on the right side. I chose to add a top-stitch close to the fold on the right side (also hand-sewed the facing onto the shoulder seam allowances on the reverse with a few stitches, to keep it nicely in place).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/10Topstitched.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="547" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/10Topstitched.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>IV. </b>Next up where the sleeves, which I pinned in place, right sides facing, and sewed (finishing the seam allowances with my serger, zig-zag again works as well). I had planned on French seams here too, but honestly couldn't be bothered..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/11Sleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/11Sleeves.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here's something I like to do whenever doing non-set sleeves - after sewing the sleeves into place, I at this point press the folds onto the sleeve hems. I find it's much easier when they're still open like this, vs. after you've sewn the sleeve underseam.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/12FoldPressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/12FoldPressed.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">However.... I did end up adjusting the sleeve shape a bit, so with this particular project, that step went to waste:)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>V. </b>Thinking I was almost done, I pinned the sides together and sewed them..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/13SideSeam.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/13SideSeam.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">... And also finished the sleeve hems and the top hem with double-folds. Which got me here. When trying the top on at this point, I realised I did not like the shape of the sleeves. They were too loose and floppy. So I took them in and clipped a bit off the length (shown with the black lines). To give the sleeve hems a bit more structure, I finished them with bias tape instead of the double-fold.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/14AlmostDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/14AlmostDone.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After that, I was still not fully satisfied with them, so to finish off I decided to add a box pleat. At this point I didn't have the energy to re-do the bias tape finish, so I went for the lazy option and just folded the pleat on the hemmed sleeve...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/15Pleat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="561" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/15Pleat.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. Hand-sewing it flat on the reverse. Who's gonna be looking inside my sleeves anyway!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/16Reverse.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/16Reverse.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">That did it for me and I was satisfied enough:)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/DIY_RoundNeckSilkTShirt4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="529" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/DIY_RoundNeckSilkTShirt4.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/DIY_RoundNeckSilkTShirt5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/DIY_RoundNeckSilkTShirt5.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/DIY_RoundNeckSilkTShirt3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/DIY_RoundNeckSilkTShirt3.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/DIY_RoundNeckSilkTShirt.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="538" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Baby%20Blue%20Dotted%20TShirt/DIY_RoundNeckSilkTShirt.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">xo,</div><div style="text-align: left;">Julia</div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-28756122119599815902021-02-22T17:23:00.003+04:002021-09-22T11:29:40.294+04:00Trends: Puff Sleeve Button-Up Blouse with Chelsea Collar [+Matching Tiered Maxi Skirt]<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/02/trends-puff-sleeve-button-up-blouse.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="559" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_1.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><span><a name='more'></a>This has to be one of my proudest makes to date. It's just beautiful when you visualise something, and it ends up working out even better than you'd hoped </span>❤️The inspiration for this set was <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/281545414194865738/" target="_blank">this vintage dress pattern illustration</a>, but you know I'll never miss the opportunity to make a 2-piece. The Chelsea collar was popular in the 60's and 70's, and is making its deserved comeback! <div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i><br /><div><p style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/0Tools.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Shirting fabric (I used <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1229518/art-gallery-fabrics-cotton-poplin-fabric" target="_blank">this cotton poplin from Minerva</a>) </i><b>|</b><i> Buttons | Small amount of interfacing for the collar </i><b>|</b><i> Bias tape </i><b>|</b><i> Scissors </i><b>|</b><i> Thread & Sewing machine </i><b>|</b><i> I also used a plain white cotton to line my collar and yoke (you could use your main fabric as well)</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div><p style="text-align: left;"><b>I. </b>Here are the measurements of my cut pieces (which made a boxy fit shirt for my size EU36/US4 - given the looseness would also work for a size up). I cut my neckline wider than usual to show off the collar bones, if you wanted a more classic look then you'd want to go for a more narrow neckline.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/1Pieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/1Pieces.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>II.</b> Started with pinning my yoke pieces to the shirt back piece (right side of main fabric to right side, and lining piece right side to top piece reverse).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/2PinYoke.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/2PinYoke.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After sewing and pressing the yoke up I had my ready back piece.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/3YokeDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/3YokeDone.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>III.</b> Then moved onto my front pieces and creating the button band. First did a very narrow 0.5cm fold onto the reverse:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/4ButtonBandFold.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/4ButtonBandFold.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And then another fold onto the right side.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/5FoldAgain.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="572" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/5FoldAgain.jpg" /></a></div>Sewed the horizontal seam of the top of the button band and trimmed the corner..<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/6Sew.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/6Sew.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And clipped it on the reverse like so to remove tension:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/7Clip.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/7Clip.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. So I was ready to turn the button band right side out and press.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/8Press.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/8Press.jpg" /></a></div><div>Repeated on the other front piece.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/9BothDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/9BothDone.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>IV.</b> The next bit was impossible to photograph clearly.. But essentially you want to repeat how the yoke was attached to the back piece, with the shoulder seams. The shoulder line of each front piece needs to get sandwiched between the shoulder lines of the yoke lining & yoke main fabric. To get it right, I like to fold the shoulder lines of the yoke onto the reverse, stick the front piece shoulder line in between, add a couple pins and then turn that part reverse out, so I can get in there and sew the shoulders through all 3 layers. I also top-stitched the yoke seams at the back and along the shoulders.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/10ShoulderSeams.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="572" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/10ShoulderSeams.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>V. </b>Next up: Sleeves. My cut pieces:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/11CutSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/11CutSleeves.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">First I added two basting stitches (longest stitch on your machine) at the center of the arm curve on both sleeves. I did my stitch over a distance of 20 cm..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/12BastingStitch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/12BastingStitch.jpg" /></a></div><div><div style="text-align: left;">.. And then pulled on basting stitch bobbin threads to gather the top of the sleeve to create the puff.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/13Gathered.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/13Gathered.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Pinned the sleeves in their curves on the top (right sides facing):</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/14PinSleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/14PinSleeves.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And after sewing, finishing my seam allowance with my serger (you can also do zig-zag) and pressing it towards the top, I had my sleeves attached.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/15Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/15Done.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I then added another 2 basting stitches along the hem of the sleeve, and gathered to a comfortable length to go around my arm (wrap measurement tape around your bicep and slide it up and down over your elbow to verify). Then pinned the sleeve underseam and sides together, and sewed them.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/16GatherCuff.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/16GatherCuff.jpg" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/17SideSeam.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/17SideSeam.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To finish the sleeves, I made my cuffs - length that same comfy length to go around your arm, plus 2 cm or so for seam allowances, and I cut mine about 6.5 cm wide. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/18CutCuffs.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="578" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/18CutCuffs.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Sewed the short ends together to create circles, pressed about 1 cm on the edges, and also pressed the whole thing in half to make my cuffs. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/19Pressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/19Pressed.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Pinned the cuff onto the gathered sleeve hem. I like to pin on the reverse, sew all around along the pressed seam allowance fold..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/20PinCuff.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/20PinCuff.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And then flip the cuff onto the right side, and top-stitch right next to the fold.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/21DoneCuff.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/21DoneCuff.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>VI.</b> Phew! Getting there! At this point I decided I wanted to do a V in the back as well. So I went ahead and cut the neckline shape in the back:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/22CutBackV.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="617" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/22CutBackV.jpg" /></a></div>And I was ready to <b>draft my collar</b>! I used some wrapping paper (yep, I don't have actual pattern paper) to trace the shape:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/23DraftCollar.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/23DraftCollar.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And here you can see the shape better. With a V neck in the front and in the back, the collar will be a straight piece.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/24CollarPattern.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/24CollarPattern.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I used this pattern to cut out 2 pieces of interfacing, and pressed those onto my fabric (remember to pay attention to pattern direction if your fabric has a pattern).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/25Interfacing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/25Interfacing.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then I cut the collar pieces out, about 0.7 cm outside of the interfacing. I also cut two more collar pieces for my lining (which you could also do from the main fabric, but given that mine was a white, I wanted to pattern to show up crisp and without the lining florals shining through).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/26CutCollar.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/26CutCollar.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next I pinned the lining & main collar pieces together, right sides facing, sewed around following the interfacing edge as shown in the image below, trimmed & clipped corners...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/27PinCollar.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/27PinCollar.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/28SewTrim.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/28SewTrim.jpg" /></a></div>.. And turned the collars right side out, pushing the corners out carefully (I like to use the threading end of a large upholstery needle for this). My beautiful pressed collars were ready to go onto the shirt!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/29CollarsPressed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/29CollarsPressed.jpg" /></a></div><b>VII.</b> I came up with this bias tape method for attaching collars a while back, and I love it. creates a clean finish but helps me avoid the hand-sewing involved in a usual collar attachment:) Pinned the collars starting from the front.. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/30PinFront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/30PinFront.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. All the way to the back:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/31PinBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/31PinBack.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next I added on top my bias tape, folding it over itself at the start (the bottom of the V in the front), and continuing to pin up the front..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/32PinBias.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/32PinBias.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And down the back. At the bottom of the V I folded my bias tape to make the angle, pinned all the way back to the front, and then sewed along the fold line. After sewing remember to clip into the V at the back to remove tension. There's more detail on how to do the fold at the bottom of the V <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2016/03/techniques-bias-bound-v-neck.html" target="_blank">in this post</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/33PinBiasBack.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/33PinBiasBack.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To attach the bias tape, I then pressed it towards the top, and sewed along its edge.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/34PressSewBias.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/34PressSewBias.jpg" /></a></div>At the bottom of the back neckline, I didn't want there to be a visible stitch, so I stopped the stitch where it's still hidden by the collar, and did the very bottom of the V by hand.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/35Back.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/35Back.jpg" /></a></div><b>VIII.</b> The last bit was to add my button holes and buttons to the button bands, and hemming the top.<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/36Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/36Done.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Wah. That was a long post but I am so happy with how this turned out!! The matching skirt is just a very simple design with a half-circle skirt as the top part, and then a gathered rectangular hem piece.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_3.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_2.jpg" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_4.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="539" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_5.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_6.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="557" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Floral%20Chelsea%20Collar%20Top/DIY_ChelseaCollarTop_7.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">xo,</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Julia</div></div></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-79708268693470003692021-02-18T14:10:00.005+04:002021-09-22T11:29:51.081+04:00How To: Easy Oversized T-Shirt Maxi Dress with Gathered Hem & Slit<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/02/how-to-easy-oversized-t-shirt-maxi.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_MustardMaxiDress_1.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>I have to be honest - this is one of the laziest tutorials I've done.. I worked on this dress in the evening dusk, took photos with my phone, and forgot to document some steps... But here it is anyway! A really easy project that I manoeuvred out of just 1.6 m of fabric. It's a re-make of <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2020/06/how-to-pink-red-colourblock-dresskaftan.html" target="_blank">this dress</a> (where you'll find some more of the construction detail that's missing in this post😊) </p><p><br /></p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric (light, flowy - I used a piece out of a remnants box, unsure of composition, may be a cotton/viscose blend) </i><b>| </b><i> Scissors </i><b>|</b><i> Pins </i><b>|</b><i> Thread & Sewing machine</i></p><p><b>I.</b> Before starting to draft, I cut my fabric into 2 pieces to make sure I had enough for what I was planning. I knew I had to manage a top part of the dress about 80 cm long, and whatever I had left I would use for the gathered hem.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/1CutPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/1CutPieces.jpg" /></a></div><p><b>II. </b>Next I cut out my dress upper part pieces. The measurements get you a loose-fitting dress for my size (EU36/US4) but given the fit the same measurements easily work for a size up as well (even two, in which case the dress will be less loose).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/2CutTop.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/2CutTop.jpg" /></a></div><p>Given my limited amount of fabric, to get to the 80 cm length I had to make little extension pieces at the shoulders (the measurements in the above image are as if I was able to just cut the pieces without these extensions).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/3Extensions.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/3Extensions.jpg" /></a></div><p><b>III. </b>Next I cut out my sleeves.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/4Sleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/4Sleeves.jpg" /></a></div><p><b>IV.</b> .. And proceeded to put the upper part of the dress together. <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2015/12/how-to-ruffled-hem-shift-dress-sewing.html" target="_blank">This post</a> from way back in the day shows you the construction steps which I failed to document this time..</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/5Constructed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/5Constructed.jpg" /></a></div><p><b>V. </b>To add the hem part, I took the remaining fabric and sewed one short side together to create a long rectangle. I also finished both short edges with a double fold (these would create the slit). Then I added a basting stitch (longest stitch on your machine) to one long edge, and used that to gather the fabric, so the length matched the circumference of the hem of the upper part of the dress. Time saving tip for gathering: when doing your basting stitch, set the stitch length to the longest on your machine, and the tension to the highest - this way as you sew the machine will already gather the fabric nicely. You'll just need to adjust the gathers to get the right fullness.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/6Gathered.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/6Gathered.jpg" /></a></div><p><b>VI. </b>Once gathered, I pinned the gathered hem piece all around, and sewed in place.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/7Pinned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/7Pinned.jpg" /></a></div><p><b>VII.</b> After finishing the seam allowance with my serger (you could also zig-zag), I pressed it upwards, away from the slit opening, and right above that opening hand-stitched it in place on the reverse (so it can't turn down and become visible at the top of the slit). Last step was to hem the whole thing with a double fold.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/8Slit.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/8Slit.jpg" /></a></div><p>Can be worn with or without belt for a different look🖤</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_MustardMaxiDress_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_MustardMaxiDress_2.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_MustardMaxiDress_3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="590" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_MustardMaxiDress_3.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_MustardMaxiDress_4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_MustardMaxiDress_4.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_MustardMaxiDress_5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Mustard%20Loose%20Maxi%20Dress/DIY_MustardMaxiDress_5.jpg" /></a></div>xo,<div><br /><div>Julia</div></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8300889576772331354.post-38253691689187151352021-01-19T20:13:00.003+04:002021-09-22T11:30:02.680+04:00How To: Tiered Dress with Exposed Ruffles and Keyhole Back<p> <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2021/01/how-to-tiered-dress-with-exposed.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress7jpg.jpg" /></a></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>I've done many a tiered ruffle dress in my time. Many of them with exposed ruffles. But never a tutorial. So here it is. Enjoy.</p><p><br /></p><p><i>Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, <a href="https://menaitribe.com/support-contouraffair-tutorials/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>TOOLS:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/0Tools.jpg" /></a></div><i><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabric, 2 m full-width (I used linen) + 0.5 m of lining fabric (or same main fabric) | Scissors | A button or two | Small piece of thin round elastic | Thread & Sewing machine | Pins</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div></i><p><b>I.</b> First I cut my top pieces + identical pieces for the top lining. These measurements get you a loose style dress that fits EU36/US4-EU40-US8. I don't know what my new FTP uploader did to this image, but it messed up the text somehow.. Anyway the numbers are cm.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/1TopPieces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/1TopPieces.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>II. </b>Started by sewing and pressing the shoulder seams of both the main top and the lining.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/2Shoulders.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/2Shoulders.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>III. </b>Then I hand-sewed the little piece of elastic onto the right side of the top back piece, to secure it in the right place.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/3Hoops.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/3Hoops.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>IV.</b> Next I pinned the top pieces and the lining together at neckline, right sides facing..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/4Neckline.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="617" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/4Neckline.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">.. And then sewed all around, at the back creating the keyhole by sewing down in a narrow V at the middle, over the elastic sandwiched in between. If you look closely you see how the elastic hoops end up being just next to the stitch..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/5Keyhole.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/5Keyhole.jpg" /></a></div>.. So when you turn the project right side out & press, the hoops are nicely at the top of the keyhole.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/6KeyholeDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/6KeyholeDone.jpg" /></a></div>To finish the neckline, I sewed on my buttons & topstitched all around right next to the edge. There was no functional reason to have 2 buttons instead of 1, I just thought it would look nice.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/7Buttons.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="577" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/7Buttons.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next thing I did was to finish the arm holes using the burrito method. I explain that in more detail <a href="http://www.contouraffair.com/2017/08/how-to-jonathan-simkhai-inspired-two.html" target="_blank">here</a>, or if you prefer a video, <a href="https://youtu.be/aHKgIllmYoU" target="_blank">this is a good one</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>So I had the top done. To start constructing the tiered hem, I first measured the width of my finished top, which was 55 cm (so a total hem circumference of 110 cm).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/8TopDone.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/8TopDone.jpg" /></a></div><div><b>V.</b> I was going for 2X ruffles, so the first piece I cut was a total of 220 cm long, and 26 cm wide. I cut it in two pieces, sewed the short edges to create a circle, finished the long raw edges with my serger (or you can use zig-zag), and pressed a 2 cm fold on one edge:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/9Ruffle1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/9Ruffle1.jpg" /></a></div><b>VI. </b>Then I sewed my basting stitch about 1 cm from the folded edge (basting stitch is the longest stitch on your machine, don't backstitch at the start and end of the stitch). A few notes on this part:<div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>I normally get lazy and use a matching thread with my fabric, and don't remove the basting stitch later.. But this time I figured I'd do it right for once, and used a contrasting thread. </li><li>For when I need to gather a really long distance of fabric, I like to do the stitch in parts - in this case, I sewed 2 stitches, from side seam to side seam.</li><li>To get a nice headstart on the gathering, when sewing your basting stitch put your machine tension as high as it will go. This way the fabric will already gather a good amount as you sew, and you just need to gather further by pulling the bobbin thread, to get the ruffle to match the width of the top as you see in the image below.</li><li>Since in this technique the basting stitch goes through two layers of fabric, you'll feel more friction when pulling on the bobbin thread when gathering the fabric. To make this significantly easier, make sure you press the gathered area with a lot of steam after sewing, before starting to pull on the bobbin thread. This step makes the fabric slide on the thread way better.</li></ul></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/10Gathered.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/10Gathered.jpg" /></a></div><b>VII.</b> After gathering was done, I pinned the ruffle onto the top, making sure as I went that I was pinning it consistently about 1.5 cm from the hem of the top. If you want to be super thorough, you can mark your top piece first with fabric marker.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/11Attached.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/11Attached.jpg" /></a></div><div>.. Then I sewed all around, below the basting stitch.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/12Thread.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="543" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/12Thread.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So on the reverse you'll have this:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/14Reverse.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/14Reverse.jpg" /></a></div><div><b>VIII. </b>After that it was just a matter of repeating the same steps to add another tier. In my case this one needed to be pretty damn long - 2 x 220 cm = 440 cm (I sewed it from 3 parts), and I cut it 32 cm wide. Once both tiers were on, I removed the contrasting basting stitch. The little holes go away with a good press or in the first wash.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/13ThreadOut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/13ThreadOut.jpg" /></a></div><div>Last step was to hem the dress with a double fold.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/15Done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="599" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/15Done.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="566" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress2.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="522" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress3.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress4.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress8.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="649" data-original-width="800" src="http://kattan.org/contouraffair/2021/Striped%20Exposed%20Ruffle%20Dress/DIYTieredExposedRuffleDress5.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">xo,</div><div>Julia<br /></div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12278766054258538739noreply@blogger.com0