Tuesday 10 March 2015

FW2014/SS2015 Trends - Minimal Grey Maxi Coat

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The winter hasn't been kind to us on the East Coast this year, mostly consisting of hibernation and involuntary survival skill drills every time you've had to exit the house. I've had a lot of time to dream of minimal coats (white, powder, and grey my biggest obsessions..) It finished this one quite a while ago, but have had no business going outdoors without Siberia-grade gear. This weekend was the first time the deep freeze broke for a bit and the sun came out.

 photo 0 Tools.jpg
Wool or similar fabric, 3.5m  |  Scissors  |  Pins  |  Fabric marker  |  Iron-on hemming tape  |  Thread & Sewing machine

I. Trace and cut out the pieces for the coat. Should look something like this for the front panels (the width of each front panel at the top should be your shoulder seam length + the desired width of the collar fold):
 photo 1 Cut front pieces.jpg
.. And like this for the back piece, sleeves, and pockets + a small extension piece for the back of the collar. The size of the extension piece should again be the width of the collar fold you want. You need these pieces x2, if you are making the coat like I did - double layers. You could also use a lining fabric for the second set of pieces, I wanted the full coat to be out of the same grey fabric, including the inside.
 photo 2 cut pieces.jpg
II. Pin and sew the extension piece to the neckline of the back piece, repeat for second back piece.
 photo 3 Sew back of collar.jpg
III. Pin the pockets to the sides of the front panels and the back piece as shown below. Make sure all pockets are at equal length down from the arm hole spot.
 photo 4 Pin pockets to sides.jpg
... Place the side seams of the front panels and the back piece of the coat together, and pin the pockets to each other, right sides facing. Sew along the edges. Then sew the side seams, making sure you stop at the start of the pocket and continue again after.
 photo 5 Pin pockets to each other.jpg
.. You should then have the side seams ready, with pockets.
 photo 6 Sewn pockets.jpg
IV. Pin the shoulder seams together, right sides facing, and continue up as shown to complete the collar.
 photo 7 Pin shoulders.jpg
V. Pin the sleeve into its place, sew along the armhole edges, and finish by sewing the under seam of the sleeve.
 photo 8 Pin sleeve.jpg
VI. At this point you'll have half the coat done. Next up is repeating the process, except no pockets required this time. You will have two coats, the outer piece and the one that will be the lining.
 photo 9 Halfway there.jpg
VII. Make the belt and two belt loops. No sewing required if you use iron-on hemming tape to attach the sides to each other.
 photo 10 prep belt and loops.jpg
.. Pin the belt loops to the coat side seams, at equal heights, and sew in place.
 photo 11 Belt loop pinned.jpg  photo 12 Belt loops sewn.jpg
VIII. Place the edges of the front panels together, right sides facing. Pin together and sew all the way about 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge.
 photo 13 Pinned front seams.jpg
IX. You'll then have this. Iron the seam to finish the front of the coat.
 photo 14 Sewn front seam.jpg
X. Finish the sleeves; iron a fold on both layers, and attach with a thin strip of iron-on tape in between, press.
 photo 15 Iron sleeve hems.jpg  photo 16 Iron hemming tape.jpg
XI. Final step is to finish the hem of the coat in the same way.
 photo 17 Finish hem.jpg
Iron/steam the whole piece, and good to go.
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