How To: Sewing a Square Neckline

 

I'm back from baby land for a super quick square neck tutorial. I love this type of neckline, it adds a structured geometrical element to a top or dress, especially when combined with other contrasting shapes like voluminous sleeves. You could use this method to hack lots of patterns - I combined it here with elasticated puff sleeves and a simple gathered hem.

Tutorials take a lot of time & effort to create, and I choose to make mine available for free. If you enjoy this guide, you can support me with a donation that feels right for you, here.

I. Here are my top pieces with measurements - if hacking a pattern, just cut your top or dress piece out and replace the neckline shape by cutting out a rectangle like so. If selfdrafting a dress or top, I've included the other measurements of the top pieces as well. I cut the back piece neckline just a couple cm deeper than the front (you can sort of make out the difference through the fabric). I went for a loose-fitting style, I'm EU36/US4 but this would also fit a size up.

II. Next I sewed the top shoulders together & cut the facing piece - a rectangle that matches the neckline. I was working with very limited fabric, so I cut mine from scrap pieces which I sewed together. A much easier way to get to the same outcome is to lay the top (with shoulder seams done) on your fabric, and trace the neckline rectangle. Then measure about 4 cm out from your rectangle (or however wide you want the lined neckline to be) and cut out the facing in one single piece. Then pin it right sides facing onto the neckline, and sew all around. Make sure you clip the corners - careful not to cut into your stitch - to release the tension before turning over.

III. Now flip the lining onto the reverse side of the top and press. Then fold the edges of the lining under (I did a 0.5 cm fold).. And you're ready to sew all around, right at the edge of the lining piece.

The last thing I did was to add strings to each side of the neckline at the back, about 5 cm down from the shoulder, to be able to tie together and keep the neckline from falling down at the shoulders.

IV. You're done! Continue assembling your garment based on your pattern, or if you want to recreate this dress: I did puff sleeves (I have quite a few posts that show different styles, here and here for example), + a gathered hem from 2 rectangles, each double the width of my top piece hemline (about 120 cm). You could also do an exposed ruffle like I did here.

The only thing I will change later on is to switch the tie-up strings at the back to something lighter. I didn't have any suitable ribbon while making this, so made some from the same fabric, but it's too stiff for this purpose.

xo,

Julia